so because I'm totally wired and hyperfocused

I'm making a small thread here

of things to consider when configuring a manual active user wheelchair.

1. rigid or foldable frame?

foldable frame chairs usually are more adjustable, that means you can adjust seat height and angle, footrest length, and wheels position.

but there are some rigid frame models that are just as adjustable (Ottobock Ventus for example).

it is a common misconception that folding chairs are more convenient to transport.

I've had both, and the rigid frame chair fits in every car that had an empty seat. you click off the wheels, set the frame in the seat, and put the wheels on top. takes 20 seconds.

it's easier to lift because you do it in parts.

even with the wheels off, a foldable frame is really high, so it won't fit in a small trunk.

a rigid frame chair is also lighter so lifting it into the car is less of a strain.

a folding wheelchair is heavier, and the frame is by design not very stiff. this means every time you propel your chair, you lose some of the energy into the frame.

this means a rigid frame chair is easier to self propel if you don't have a supportive drive.

however, a rigid frame chair will not fit through, for example, a narrow door, without taking it apart.

getting a folding chair through a narrow door is a lot easier.

2. Power assist drives

if it's possible that you'll need a power assist at any point in the future, inquire if the model can be outfitted with one later on.

3. camber

the big wheels can be at an angle (see picture).

with camber, tipping sideways is less likely, so it is advisable if you have a very narrow frame.

however, camber makes it harder to self propel, and it does make the chair wider.

another advantage of camber is that if you try to go through a narrow passage, your wheels get caught before your fingers do.

a small camber of up to 3° has very little impact on the strength needed to self propel.

4. handrims

there is a wide variety of special handrims out there, for all kinds of gripping positions or for propelling when you can't actually grip. research what options you have.

stainless steel on skin has a better grip than aluminium.

there are also silicone handrim covers that you can just pull over them like a sleeve, they're fairly inexpensive.

they offer good grip, even when wet, but they will murder your skin when you use them without gloves.

5. tyres

there are air tyres and full-rubber tyres. full-rubber tyres are fucking HEAVY and they also have way more friction than air tyres.

I would not recommend them unless you use a power assist.

there are air tyres that are extra thick so popping a leak is very unlikely.

6. seat

if you have pain when sitting, or have to worry about decubitus, research special cushions and try them out, as they can be really expensive.

if it's only about comfort, you can buy memory foam cushions elsewhere for a fraction of the price and cut them to fit.

7. backrest

generally, a lower backrest is advisable for active usage because it leaves you more freedom to move and gain momentum.

a higher backrest makes sense if you have to sit in your chair for longer amounts of time and cannot transfer out of it easily.

if you have back problems, research and trial proper backrests with lumbar support. yes, they cost several hundred €

but if it means you'll be in less pain and can avoid further physical damage, then it's absolutely worth it.

8. footrests

a divided footrest, like in the image, is just unsuitable for active usage.

they're heavy, clunky, they make your chair longer, they're unstable and uncomfortable af.

9. front casters

generally, smaller is better.

smaller front wheels give stability when going fast, for example downhill.

this has to do with physics, but basically bigger front wheels lower the speed at which the chair starts to lurch sideways.

I had big front casters because I thought they make it easier to go over small ledges.

this effect is barely notable, but they add weight to the front, making it harder to pop a wheelie and go over the ledge.

10. armrests and side guards

side guards between the chair and the wheel make sure your clothes don't get caught in the spokes.

armrests are a nuisance if you self propel.

but there are side guards that have small handles to help with transferring.

11. push handles

push handles are for someone else to push the chair.

there are foldable push handles, adjustable push handles, rigid push handles,

and you can also leave them off completely.

a few notes:

- the price difference between a customised active user chair vs a crappy standard wheelchair is a factor of 10.

- a new customised active user chair will *at least* cost ~2000 €, if you need special cushion /
handrims / backrest you easily exceed 3000.

- there are huge differences in models even if they look similar. compare the weight and how many different options they have to customise wheels, seat and backrest position,

especially if it's your first wheelchair and it's an adjustable one.

- if you get a used wheelchair, a lot can be done in regards to making it fit you even if the measurements don't fit exactly.

I can't list all the options here, but do feel free to @ or DM me anytime, I'm an engineer, this is exactly my game.

- main wheels position is important. they should he as far forwards as possible, it should be *extremely* easy to pop a wheelie. just a nudge on the handrims should be enough.

- this is because you want most weight on the big wheels and as little as possible on the small ones.

- in an adjustable chair, this can be changed. you can start out with a "less active" position and change it later.

- most weight on big wheels = little friction = easier rolling = less strength needed

- get anti tippers if you're afraid of tipping over backwards.

- I don't have anti tippers and my wheels are in a "very active" position because I'm hardcore

- if you find a model you like, really compare with similar models in the same price range.

- lower weight = better

- more options = better

- some wheelchairs are sold as "active user" chairs but are in fact not intended for active, independent usage.

- examples: Ottobock "Motus" , Quickie / Sopur / Sunrise Medical "Easy Life"

- no I don't know why Quickie / Sopur / Sunrise Medical has 3 names for 2 manufacturer

- if you're gonna crowdfund / pester your insurance / raid your savings account anyway,

DO NOT GET A CHAIR THAT IS LESS THAN ABSOLUTELY PERFECT

a *perfect* wheelchair will be your friend for 10 years and when it finally breaks down you will be sad to see it go.

a less than perfect wheelchair will make you happy for a month, you'll tolerate it another 3,

but within half a year you'll spend every day asking yourself where you'd be if you had one that actually suited your needs, and you'll resent it.

DO NOT let yourself be fooled by salespeople.

If you're fat, they see you as a woman or as "very sick", they'll try to sell you a wheelchair / configuration that's not suitable for active independent usage.

If they have incorrect knowledge, like "folding chairs are easier to transport" or

"there are no rigid frame chairs that can be adjusted later on, so they're not suitable as a first wheelchair",

they will sell you shit.

Configure your chair, then talk the configuration through with someone who actually uses a wheelchair & can compare their advice to your actual needs.

1 manufacturer. 1. they're all the same. https://twitter.com/disabilisaur/status/978052745423933440?s=19

anyway those salespeople often have 2 images in their heads:

1) an otherwise healthy, young man with a spinal cord injury who will want a very active, lightweight, rigid frame chair

2) a female, or elderly person with a chronic illness who will want a wheelchair that

they can sit in all day and that they can move around a bit on their own, but who also has no interest or ability of using it independently.

this is Bullshit.

a lightweight, rigid frame wheelchair configured for being active makes life a *lot* easier *especially* for people who are sick and don't have a lot of strength.

wheelchair configuration can make the difference between being home bound and... not being.

btw, Ottobock has some pretty good chairs in the lower price segment, the Ottobock Ventus for example is a rigid frame chair, but still adjustable, with a base cost of around 2000€.

It's not a high end rigid frame chair, but it is very customisable even later on.

Yes I have a Ventus and I absolutely love it.

I haven't even needed to adjust it yet but I know i will need to in the future, at the latest when I eventually get a power assist.

I love this chair

a few specifics I'd forgotten to mention before:

BACKREST:

got active usage, the backrest should reach no higher than 2 cm below your shoulder blades.

SEAT ANGLE:

the back of the seat should always be a few cm lower than the front of the seat.

this is for comfort, stability and carrying stuff on your lap without it slipping off (extremely important for everyday life).

I'd recommend at least 3 cm difference, I prefer 5-7 cm.

If you're stuck with a crappy standard wheelchair or a wheelchair that has a divided footrest, there's a trick to make them more usable:

take off the footrests and put a strap in its place.

this makes it lighter, shorter & easier to propel & maneuver.

this is because

a) it gets rid off extra weight far in the front

and b) it gets your legs further back

both make for a better position of the centre of gravity, meaning a greater share of the weight goes on the big wheels.

this means less friction = less strength needed.

an alternative positioning of the strap is to fasten it at the top and letting it hang down in a U shape, this is preferable if otherwise it gets caught in the front casters.

you put your feet on the strap instead of the footrest.

won't work for everyone obviously.