Read on Twitter
Thread on the new things I noticed in S Korea this time. Please keep in mind: (1) this is just what I noticed, it could have been there for years but new to me; (2) I spent most of my time in the upper middle-class spaces in metropolitan Seoul.
- It's jarring to see a normally running society after having been under house arrest for 10 months. It really makes you appreciate how much damage Americans took for the past year, all the things we missed, like face-to-face convos, eating at restaurants, etc.
- Power of expectations is a hell of a thing. S Koreans are aware of lockdowns in other countries, but can't really imagine what it's like. They are used to their gov't doing a super job, to a point that public health measures feel like a huge annoyance.
After about a week, I could understand that perspective as well. The damage to small businesses is real; if I owned one of those businesses, I would definitely start resenting public health measures that make me lower capacity and close early.
- Here's how I gauged the damage to small businesses. At lunchtime, the most popular restaurants near my office were just as crowded as ever. But the lunch rush lasted only half as long as usual.
- Public health measures are fairly strict, but nowhere near the panicked idea that "S Korea has no civil rights" or whatever. The self-quarantine app deactivates after two weeks, and while most people obey the guidelines, it is easy enough to cheat if anyone cared to do so.
- Technically, I spent my time under the most stringent restriction that S Korea ever introduced: no gathering of more than 4 people and 9 pm business curfew. It felt like nothing. Party of 4 is big enough for most occasions and you just start drinking at 5 pm.
In fact, I personally really appreciated the 9 pm curfew because I didn't get dragged to second, third, fourth rounds of drinking until the day breaks. Also, the way the subway crowd looked at 9:15 pm is hilarious. 9 pm was the new 1 am.
- Setting aside the damages to small businesses, there was SO. MUCH. MONEY flowing through the country now. I saw more BMWs in small towns in S Korea than I usually see in Washington DC. Economy is booming and easy money is everywhere.
There were so many mediocre restaurants that were charging outrageous prices, and they were packed. Half the people on the subway were looking at their stock portfolio on smartphones. It's almost as if containing the pandemic is good for economy, who could have guessed?
- This was the first time in a long while that I visited Korea in the winter, and I had forgotten all about how warm ondol was during the winter. Thank you ancestors for the warm houses.
- Real estate is totally out of control. We stayed at an airbnb that was a 1000 sq ft condo just outside of Seoul boundaries (Bundang). It was over $1m. It was incomprehensible to me, a Seoul native, that people would pay that much to live outside of Seoul.
Bundang also had Eataly and Tartine, two luxury US brands that we don't have in DC. I can accept the idea that Seoul could be fancier than DC, but it's an adjustment to see Gyeonggi-do being fancier than DC.
I visited Tongyeong 통영 for the first time and I can't believe what I've been missing. Awesome history, as it was the naval base for Admiral Yi Sun-sin. (Photo was his HQ.) And the most amazing seafood you're likely to have. Bar none the best oysters I've had.
Tongyeong has a unique type of restaurants called "dajji" 다찌집. There is no menu, you just order a bottle of alcohol and the chef just puts out a spread of the day's freshest catches. The more drinks you order, the rarer seafood you receive. Incredible eating experience.
This was a stone pot of oysters and rice. There was more oysters than rice. It cost KRW 10k ($9). It felt like stealing.
- We need to start having a conversation about whether Seoul is the best coffee city in the world. Just typing out that sentence blew my mind because I remember when coffee in Korea was undrinkable.
- I wouldn't call Seoul the best beer city, but the quality and variety of local brew improved dramatically. You can get a decent beer at any convenience store, which is not something you could say... 5 years ago? I think?
- My flight on the way there was about 30% full. On the way back, maybe 10%. The flight attendants were so bored that they practically jumped at us if we looked like we needed something.
That's all I have, for now. AMA I guess.
- Late 90s K-pop is now the elevator music, or generic restaurant music.
Spring 2019 was the last time I was there. https://twitter.com/imabutz/status/1361745355478556674
Yes - Gyeonggi is becoming wealthy because it is soaking up wealth from both directions: big corporations who find Seoul rent too expensive, and regional wealth fleeing the non-Seoul area. Hyundai Heavy Industries' R&D department e.g. is Ulsan in favor of Bundang. https://twitter.com/hypotheticMatty/status/1361745353662472193
Felt it all the time. Pretty much every conversation was: "What went wrong with you guys?" https://twitter.com/AnonKmed/status/1361739878963187713
We stayed at the nearby Geoje-do Island if that counts. It's an interesting place - the Korean War prison complex is very much worth the visit. https://twitter.com/hithereimjun/status/1361798702172545024
As to restaurants in Tongyeong:
- For dajji experience, I'm told Ulsan Dajji 울산다찌 was the OG, but locals told us to go to Mulbora Dajji 물보라다찌
- Chungmu Gimbap is also from Tongyeong but I find it to be overrated, even at the original place.
- For dajji experience, I'm told Ulsan Dajji 울산다찌 was the OG, but locals told us to go to Mulbora Dajji 물보라다찌
- Chungmu Gimbap is also from Tongyeong but I find it to be overrated, even at the original place.
- Milmul Sikdang 밀물식당 inside the Tongyeong traditional market was also excellent. That's where I had the stone pot oyster rice.
- If you're driving, don't miss the 풍화일주로 drive and the Baeyangjang cafe: https://www.instagram.com/baeyangjang/?hl=en Converted sea squirt breeding facility.
- If you're driving, don't miss the 풍화일주로 drive and the Baeyangjang cafe: https://www.instagram.com/baeyangjang/?hl=en Converted sea squirt breeding facility.
Some improvement, I guess? Definitely a lot more hand sanitizers everywhere and public places are wiped down more frequently. Masks are universal. https://twitter.com/kglee/status/1361813292386164736
- Korean winter spinach from the south. What a revelation. Leaves are soft and delicate, and sweeter than an apple (!) I swear you've never tasted anything like it. I'm dying to try grilling or caramelizing it if I have the chance.
Also had forgotten how good strawberries were in Korea. If you are in Korea, don't miss the strawberries, they are amazing.
Totally fine. I generally have good luck with weather whenever I travel. Got a little bit hazy toward the end of my visit but nothing out of the ordinary. https://twitter.com/kglee/status/1361862180828712962
