Pining for an escape from the damp and dank lockdown to somewhere exotic? Well, there are dozens of volcanic islands dubbed the 'Hawaii of the Atlantic' – some you might have heard of and even visited – that boast the best of both worlds: cultural and natural. Thread ⏬
1⃣ I first noticed the name Macaronesian Islands on a bottle of gin, and thought it was either a marketing ploy or typo. But it turns out it’s a portmanteau of the Greek words for "islands of the fortunate" (makárōn nisoi) – that’s what ancient cartographers called them.
2⃣ Others have linked the islands to ancient Atlantis. There are four archipelagos in the Macaronesians – the Azores, the Canaries, Madeira and Cape Verde. In total, they have just over 3m inhabitants, ranging from a mere 430 in Corvo in the Azores to 917,000 in Tenerife.
3⃣ Needless to say, the climates vary dramatically – the most northerly Azorean island, Corvo, is more than 2,800km away from the most southerly Cape Verdean island, Maio. In fact, two Azorean islands, Corvo and Flores, are in the North American Plate.
4⃣ Apart from the Canaries, the islands were uninhabited when first visited by European seamen. It took the Castilians (now Spain) virtually the entire 15th century to conquer the Canaries and all but exterminate the aboriginal islanders, known as Guanches.
5⃣ One of the first things the colonists did was build churches – and that’s what this thread is about: the churches of Macaronesia. On some islands, there are loads of beautiful ones. Let's look at at a few, moving from Azores in the northwest to Cape Verde in the southeast.
6⃣ And we begin with a real beaut, São Nicolau in Sete Cidades on São Miguel in the Azores. Reached by a pine-lined path, this neo-Gothic church is just 500m from a stunning volcanic crater lake.
7⃣ Over in Terceira, there are lots of gorgeous churches in Angra do Heroísmo – it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site – but I’ve been smitten by the 15th century São Sebastião church, which mixes Gothic and Manueline styles, in the village of São Sebastião.
8⃣ In Faial, Nossa Senhora das Angústias church gets the 👍. It’s so perfect that it looks like it’s made of Lego. Work on the current three-nave structure began in1800 and like many colonial churches, heraldry is prominent in the interior decoration.
9⃣ Santíssima Trindade church in Lajes de Pico is one of my favourites – purely because of its oh-so-pretty location at the fork of cobbled roads and the pineapple-like palm tree plus the headland in the horizon. Inside, it’s relatively spartan by Azorean standards.
🔟 Long and slender São Jorge has some of the oldest churches in the Azores, so the competition is fierce but Santa Bárbara church in Manadas takes the accolades. Built in 1770, its location overlooking the ocean and its lavishly decorated interiors are unbeatable.
1⃣1⃣ The chosen church in Santa Maria is Nossa Senhora da Purificação in the hamlet of Santo Espírito (pop. 588). It’s almost like something out of Hansel & Gretel, with a chessboard pattern on the belltower and a really elaborate basalt frontispiece.
1⃣2⃣ Two Macaronesian islands are named Graciosa (‘Graceful’) and the Azorean one is larger and more populated than its Canarian cousin. Nossa Senhora da Ajuda chapel is one of three on a hill crowned by the bullring 🤮 in Santa Cruz. The interior has typical Portuguese tiling.
1⃣3⃣ We're spoilt for choice in Flores but Nossa Senhora do Rosário church in the largest village (pop. 1,504) wins out because of its tiled façade. Begun in 1763, it was refurbished in the 1880s in the revivalist style. Inside, it’s pretty so-so.
1⃣4⃣ It’s fitting that the smallest island, Corvo, should have a dinky church. This is the latest incarnation, after previous versions were destroyed by pirates (1632) and fire (1932). The church is just a stone’s throw from the port and airstrip so no excuses for not visiting.
1⃣5⃣ One of the most historic churches in Macaronesia is the Gothic Funchal cathedral, dating from 1493, in Madeira. Its basalt frontispiece and belfry are burnt sienna rather than black while inside the nave is lined with clustered columns. Not expense was spared on the apse.
1⃣6⃣ Possibly the oldest church of all in Macaronesia is Nossa senhora da Piedade in Vila Baleira on capital of Porto Santo island (pop. 5,200). It dates from 1430, when it was Gothic, though has been extensively rebuilt since then. A few medieval elements have been preserved.
1⃣7⃣ As the largest and most populous island in Macaronesia, Tenerife is bound to have a big selection. The winner by a nose is La Concepción in La Oratava, a baroque beauty first built in 1498. Inside, a Genoese tabernacle made of marble and jasper steals the show.
1⃣8⃣ Arguably the most significant church of all is Nuestra Señora del Pino in pastel-coloured Teror in Gran Canaria. A Marian ‘apparition’ in 1481 help the colonists convince the colonised that God was on the side of might. Surprisingly, the church is in Portuguese Gothic style.
1⃣9⃣ As the first Canary Island to be invaded all the way back in 1402, you could do a thread on just Lanzarote’s colonial churches. But for its symbiosis with the volcanic landscape, the 1950s church of the hamlet of Ye, with Corona volcano in the background, wins out.
2⃣0⃣ The conquest of Fuerteventura followed that of Lanzarote and the site of the oldest church (1410) can be found in Betancuria. But it’s Nuestra Señora de Regla in Pajara that catches the eye for its elaborate carved Aztec-inspired frontispiece.
2⃣1⃣ A genuine gem claims the prize in La Palma, an island famed for its Jurassic Park-like landscapes than its architectural heritage. Outside, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves – which dates from 1646 – is pleasing on the eye; inside it looks like a medieval banqueting hall.
2⃣2⃣ Blending Mudejar, baroque and Gothic influences, Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in La Gomera is enhanced by the favela-like colours of the housing on a ridge above it. A fresco inside recalls an unsuccessful attack on the island by English pirates in 1743.
2⃣3⃣ Work began in 1767 and it took 53 years to build Nuestra Señora de la Concepción in Valverde on El Hierro. But it was worth the wait as the location is pretty special. Its belfry looks like a lighthouse, which is fitting as it can be seen from sea.
2⃣4⃣ There are no cars, or even asphalted roads, on the Canarian island of La Graciosa. It’s like something from another era – even like a Spaghetti western. Work began on nautically themed Nuestra Señora del Carmen in 1945 and ended in 1993. Seagulls like to rest on its belfry.
2⃣5⃣ As one of the oldest towns in Cape Verde, Ribera Grande in rugged and volcanic Santo Antão boasts one of the prettiest churches Nossa Senhora do Rosário. Work began in the late 18th century under the direction of Frei Cristóvão de Boaventura.
2⃣6⃣ Located in a volcanic caldera, Mindelo is home to nine in 10 of São Vicente’s inhabitants. It’s home to quite a bit of Portuguese colonial architecture, including the pristine Nossa Senhora da Luz church, which dates from 1862. True to its name, it’s bright inside.
2⃣7⃣ Apparently, Nossa Senhora do Rosário church in Ribeira Brava on São Nicolau is the oldest continuously used church in the island. Construction as a cathedral began in 1789. Since downgraded, its current incarnation dates from 1898, though the façade often changes colours.
2⃣8⃣ Virtually in the middle of nowhere, the church of Pedro de Lume in Sal island is like something out of a Mad Max movie. Rusting industrial equipment, salt flats and dusty volcanic landscapes and a fishing harbour add to its eerie attraction. Inside, it’s very basic.
2⃣9⃣ Peeling, crumbling, with a corrugated iron roof and surrounded by dusty dilapidation, Nossa Senhora da Conceição church on Boa Vista oozes rustic charm. Originally built in 1828, it has seen better days and will surely see them again.
3⃣0⃣ A babe from 1999, São Pedro church in Perdo Vaz on Maio blends seamlessly with its dusty surroundings. Inside, the hamlet’s humble reality is reflected in the spartan decoration. The ocean is under 2km behind the church.
3⃣1⃣ UNESCO-listed Velha (pop. 1,214) on Santiago is home to the oldest colonial church in the world, built in 1495. It has a side chapel in Manueline Gothic style – a rare example of Gothic architecture in sub-Saharan Africa.
3⃣2⃣ Pastel-coloured São Filipe on Fogo is home to the relatively simple Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Built in 1849, it dominates a sloped square lined with colonial houses known as ‘sobrados’, usually with French windows, balconies or verandas.
3⃣3⃣ In contrast to many towns in Cape Verde, Nova Sintra, the largest on Brava, is whitewashed. The island is rocky and has no beaches so free of most tourism and the derived economic benefits. Despite this, 19th century São João Baptista church looks in pretty good nick. ENDS.
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