I’ve said it so many times. One of the big obvious aggressions that black actresses face on set is not having stylists who know how to do their hair. It is not required to work on natural black hair to get a cosmetology license, and producers hiring don’t ask— https://twitter.com/ctrlgrlz/status/1354217231257894914
—plus it’s easy to fake, to take credit for hair that the actresses did themselves and build a reputation at being good with black hair when you never even touch it.
Then the actress has to spend her own money and time every day in order to look as presentable as the...
white actress standing next in line. Money when actresses are starting out can be what keeps someone in Hollywood or sends them home. And time? Time is everything.
Extra sleep to look good, extra time too get to set to eat, to get into character, to learn your lines, it’s all...
So important! And that time is afforded to white actresses but stolen from black actresses. They are not paid for that time.
Then when they’re out of time—they’re tired, hungry, and don’t have every last line memorized—they’re penalized.
And I said at the top that this is big and obvious. Not a micro aggression. This sets black actresses in competition with white actresses up to fail in an industry that was already built to not support them. It is easy to correct: hire black hair teams and teams who have explicit
experience. Ask them to prove it. Pay your actress and your hair lead for an extra day of work in prep to try out hair looks. This gives your hair lead a few hours to prove they haven’t lied about their experience and your actress the time to get prepared and get comfortable.
To a lesser extent this also affects male actors, especially any with longer hair.
And also to a lesser extent makeup can fall into the same trap; a lot of makeup lines don’t carry dark skin tones with different undertones, so MUAs show up to set without the tools to match actors
To combat this most black actresses either come camera-ready in their own makeup or bring their own foundations to set with them. But again, this is costing them their own time and money when set is already paying for the kit and time of a professional.
And the alternative...
If a black actress were to show up to set without her own makeup or with undone hair she’d run the risk of having the pro make her look like a clown. We’ve all seen photos. There are so many examples.
When your next job depends on how good you look on this job you can’t risk it.
So when you see an article about a specific situation on a specific set, like Boy Meets World, Sabrina, High School Musical... don’t think it’s just that one set, or olden times, or some unfortunate accident... it’s the vaaaast majority of sets I’ve worked on as a costumer.
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