Thread by @claytonchambrs, Streetwear, Gorpcore & the future of menswear.Menswear is changing. Even Virgil says [...]

Streetwear, Gorpcore & the future of menswear.

Menswear is changing. Even Virgil says streetwear's gonna die.

Meanwhile, there's this growing trend of urban dwellers wearing camping gear like they're headed Upstate...

Meet Gorpcore.

Is it replacing streetwear?

[thread]

So let's unpack:

1/ What Gorpcore is + where it came from.
2/ What makes something Gorpcore.
3/ Its place in the culture.
4/ Predicting just how mainstream outdoor-wear can go.

What is Gorpcore:

Ever heard of "good old raisins and peanuts?"

It's another phrase for trail mix. Yep, that's it.

So how's this related to Gorpcore?

Gorpcore is someone who wears a (trail) mix of: technical, utilitarian, function, outdoorsy-wear on the regular.

... you know, clothing *traditionally* reserved for trail runners. Hikers. Campers.

Kind of like this:

In 2017, The Cut's Jason Chen coined the phrase Gorpcore as a way of describing this budding species.

But it ain't new.

It's been around for years, gaining steam in the late 2010s.

Chen says Gorpcore represents a style-shift away from minimalism (what's known as Normcore).

Here's Chen's piece if you're interested in a deeper dive on the origins.
https://www.thecut.com/2017/05/new-fashion-trends-normcore-gorpcore.html

Characteristics of Gorpcore?
It's:
- playfully normal.
- ugly on purpose.
- painfully obstinate.
- obscenely colorful.

All at the same time. Here's what I mean

A direct quote from someone Chen interviewed:

“Listen, if you dropped me somewhere upstate, I’d cry... but I love clothes that can transport me."

that's the irony of Gorpcore.

By being non-style, it *is* a fashion statement.

But what *actually* makes something Gorpcore?

I've got 4 indicators: color, shape, layering, and function.

Here's your guide to detecting Gorpies in the wild...

1/ COLOR
Color is key.

You often see it with the outerwear and socks.

From fleeces and windbreakers, to soft-shell puffers, color is where you make it pop.

And the socks...

2/ SHAPE & LAYERS

The trousers fit loose-to-baggy for comfort and ease.

Whether it’s a crewneck w/ fleece thrown over, or an over shirt with a windbreaker on the outside, layering gives you texture and volume.

Life goals are to look half as dope as this dude in my old age.

Also s/o to Japan-Based wm_styling on IG.

They represent an Asian take on Gorpcore, drawing inspiration from well-known Japanese outdoor brand, @SnowPeak_Japan.

3/ FUNCTION
Take the footwear.

Brands like Adidas, Hoka, and Salomon are hallmarks for good technology, showing the versatility of their shoes.

Whereas Clearweather focuses on function AND form, something that appeals to trail runners and sneakerheads alike.

Brilliant.

What about the real outsiders?

Yes, there are actual stores dedicated to Gorpcore-wear.

One of my favorite stores is @outsiders_store, based in England. They’ve got shops in London and Liverpool.

Their customers are real outsiders, the type who go camping and hiking.

Make no mistake, they attract yuppies, too (like me).

Outsiders ethos and product blends all the characteristics of what defines Gorpcore: color, shape, layering, and function.

Idk the first thing about pitching a tent, but I would 100% cop everything in store if I could.

The Brand Names.

With Gorpcore, brand logos are important too, just as they are with vintage wear like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, or Tommy Hilfiger.

Again, this is opposite to the age of minimalism in clothing.

These are hallmark brands of Gorpcore:

You see It’s a mix of old and new brands, which is awesome. It speaks to their ability to transcend generations.

Each logo was founded in the 1900s (LL Bean being the oldest from 1912), and Cotapaxi being the youngest, launching in 2014 with a bit of seed funding.

In the wild.

From secondhand vintage (old-school patagonia) up to luxury (Balenciaga), all sorts of influencers, celebs, and internet voices are putting their spin on gorpcore.

Here's Ezra Koenig, the Throwing Fits guy, and Drake (L-to-R).

What's next for Gorpcore?

Over the next decade we’ll see Gorpcore grow into a mainstream genre.

Here are 4 things I think can happen this decade

1/ Brands will shift their collabs from being streetwear-centric to being outdoorsy + activity-based.

@RowingBlazers did this with @FILAUSA over the holidays.
https://www.nylon.com/fashion/fila-rowing-blazers-released-a-90s-inspired-ski-collection

2/ High fashion (per-usual) will overdose its take on Gorpcore at runway shows (e.g. like what we saw with oversized hoodies and chunky sneakers).

We’ve already seen this happen with brands like Balenciaga and Givenchy. More on the way.

3/ Brands will leverage Gorpcore to position their own brand as "sustainable."

Gucci recently made this move by partnering with The North Face.

4/ Brands will look to the 90s for inspiration, going retro with typography, color, and fit.

Nike’s 30 year anniversary is a prime example of this.

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