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Does your skin feel tight and dry, but looks oily as hell? Does your face sting when you put on anything, even hydrating products? Does it feel like none of your products are working?
Letâs talk about your skinâs moisture barrier, cus BAYBEEEE you wrecked her!
THREAD
Letâs talk about your skinâs moisture barrier, cus BAYBEEEE you wrecked her!
THREAD
Okay fine lol. The moisture barrier, AKA skin barrier, stratum corneille, acid mantle, hydro-lipid film etc, is the topmost layer of the epidermis and it is what protects you from literally EVERYTHING.
It protects you from germs, pollution etc, so itâs SUPER important!
It protects you from germs, pollution etc, so itâs SUPER important!
OBVIOUSLY you canât see it, but imo, it is the most important part of your skincare. A healthy barrier = better everything. It keeps your skin performing at optimal level (THAT is what we want)!
Now, a damaged barrier = nothing works and everything hurts. We donât want that!
Now, a damaged barrier = nothing works and everything hurts. We donât want that!
How do you damage your barrier? VERY easily, lmao.
The most common way is through over exfoliation bc yall canât drop the exfoliants and pick up some hydrators lol (Iâm not shaming you, Iâm bullying you into being better bc ily).
The most common way is through over exfoliation bc yall canât drop the exfoliants and pick up some hydrators lol (Iâm not shaming you, Iâm bullying you into being better bc ily
).
Other ways include:
- Unprotected exposure to sun (UV rays)
- Over exposure to water bc that could remove your skin natural moisturising factors and lipids
- Basic Soaps (pH>7) bc the barrier is mildly acidic (~pH 5)
- Hot water. Too stripping babes
- Harsh physical exfoliation
- Unprotected exposure to sun (UV rays)
- Over exposure to water bc that could remove your skin natural moisturising factors and lipids
- Basic Soaps (pH>7) bc the barrier is mildly acidic (~pH 5)
- Hot water. Too stripping babes
- Harsh physical exfoliation
So of course I said itâs bad to have a damaged barrier, but why is that?
Letâs do it this way!
Youâre treating your acne, thatâs why youâve been exfoliating so much, right? But if your barrier is damaged, your acne becomes MORE inflamed. Your treatments stop working!
Letâs do it this way!
Youâre treating your acne, thatâs why youâve been exfoliating so much, right? But if your barrier is damaged, your acne becomes MORE inflamed. Your treatments stop working!
Same with your hyperpigmentation, that gets worse.
You experience trans-epidermal water loss, so your face will be dehydrated from tight, flaky AND may be oilier than normal bc your skin is forced to overproduce oil to counter the dryness!
You experience trans-epidermal water loss, so your face will be dehydrated from tight, flaky AND may be oilier than normal bc your skin is forced to overproduce oil to counter the dryness!
You have texture? It gets worse.
You donât have texture? You develop some.
You suddenly develop fine lines, your wrinkles are a LOT more pronounced.
Your treatments STOP working.
Your face is burning.
Causes eczema flares.
Causes premature aging.
Everything hurts. Nothing works!
You donât have texture? You develop some.
You suddenly develop fine lines, your wrinkles are a LOT more pronounced.
Your treatments STOP working.
Your face is burning.
Causes eczema flares.
Causes premature aging.
Everything hurts. Nothing works!
As you can see, all that is horrible. Pain isnât nice (for most people)...
But HOW do you identify a damaged barrier? Well... letâs get into that!
But HOW do you identify a damaged barrier? Well... letâs get into that!
1. Tight, dehydrated skin.
2. Stinging upon application of products that didnât sting before.
3. Fine lines.
4. Excess production of oil.
5. Sudden ineffectiveness of products.
6. Increase in breakouts (more acne etc).
7. More pronounced texture.
8. Itchiness/redness/flakiness.
2. Stinging upon application of products that didnât sting before.
3. Fine lines.
4. Excess production of oil.
5. Sudden ineffectiveness of products.
6. Increase in breakouts (more acne etc).
7. More pronounced texture.
8. Itchiness/redness/flakiness.
Okay now that weâve gotten identifying a damaged barrier down, letâs do the important part, how do you FIX it??
Uhmmm well, letâs discuss the components of the moisture barrier FIRST!
Uhmmm well, letâs discuss the components of the moisture barrier FIRST!
Your skin has these things called natural moisturising factors and lipids... these components influence a LOT of your skincare products
The skin barrier is made up of something called the lipid matrix, which has 3 main components: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides.
The skin barrier is made up of something called the lipid matrix, which has 3 main components: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides.
Natural moisturising factors are made up of urea, amino acids etc, which are very important in making your skin perform at optimal level, i.e. optimal hydration, plasticity as well as ensuring the desquamation process is seamless and regular.
So in fixing your barrier, you HAVE to restore these things to your skin, so what are key ingredients to look out for?
1. Ceramides: Already components of skin so restore them.
But theyâre also hydrophilic and hydrophobic, so they both attract and bind water into skin (good)!
1. Ceramides: Already components of skin so restore them.
But theyâre also hydrophilic and hydrophobic, so they both attract and bind water into skin (good)!
2. Cholesterols and Fatty acids: Work by mimicking the natural components of the barrier to help build it back up.
3. Amino acids: Help transport moisture and prevent free radical damage.
4. Antioxidants: Fight free radical damage by neutralising the free radicals.
3. Amino acids: Help transport moisture and prevent free radical damage.
4. Antioxidants: Fight free radical damage by neutralising the free radicals.
Petrolatum: Forms a hydrophobic film on the skin to prevent the evaporation of water from the surface of the skin (prevents TEWL).
Other ingredients to look out for:
So step by step on how to fix your barrier? BET!
1. Identify how damaged it is.
If even your moisturiser stings and the stinging is unbearable, Iâd go with:
Cleanser-Petroleum Jelly (on damp face in the evening)
and
Cleanser-SPF (in the AM)
1. Identify how damaged it is.
If even your moisturiser stings and the stinging is unbearable, Iâd go with:
Cleanser-Petroleum Jelly (on damp face in the evening)
and
Cleanser-SPF (in the AM)
You may prefer a mineral spf if the chemical spfs sting!
You may also prefer to use a zinc oxide ointment as @_Starsabreep recommends!
You may also prefer to use a zinc oxide ointment as @_Starsabreep recommends!
If your barrier isnât THAT impaired and you can still use some stuff, go with:
Cleanser-Moisturiser-SPF
If your skin can take it, add a repairing serum and/or hydrating toner!
Cleanser-Moisturiser-SPF
If your skin can take it, add a repairing serum and/or hydrating toner!
When youâre fixing your barrier, please drop all of these actives, specifically:
AHAs: Mandelic, glycolic and lactic acids.
BHAs: Salicylic Acid
Benzoyl Peroxide
Retinoids
Niacinamide at %>5 cus that could be irritating
Vitamin C
AHAs: Mandelic, glycolic and lactic acids.
BHAs: Salicylic Acid
Benzoyl Peroxide
Retinoids
Niacinamide at %>5 cus that could be irritating
Vitamin C
So what products do EYE like when Iâm fixing my barrier, and what have J seen others recommend/love?
*I will make it clear what products Iâve used and which ones are just highly recommended!
*I will make it clear what products Iâve used and which ones are just highly recommended!
My favourite product of all time is the one I must start with! The @paulaschoiceuk omega+ complex serum!
With:
- Omega Fatty Acids
- Ceramides
- Shea Butter
- Cholesterol
With:
- Omega Fatty Acids
- Ceramides
- Shea Butter
- Cholesterol
Cerave Healing Ointment:
With:
- Pertolatum
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Panthenol
- Hyaluronic Acid
S/O @MakeupForWOC and @caveofbeauty for putting ALL of us on lmao.
With:
- Pertolatum
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Panthenol
- Hyaluronic Acid
S/O @MakeupForWOC and @caveofbeauty for putting ALL of us on lmao.
The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid:
La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume:
With:
- Centella Asiatica
- Panthenol
- Shea Butter
This applies a bit white, but you donât need too much, and it goes clear as you rub it in!
With:
- Centella Asiatica
- Panthenol
- Shea Butter
This applies a bit white, but you donât need too much, and it goes clear as you rub it in!
Paulaâs Choice Skin Recovery Softening Cream Cleanser:
(10/10 Product fr)!
With:
- Beta Glucan
- Sterols
- Chamomile Flower Extract
(10/10 Product fr)!
With:
- Beta Glucan
- Sterols
- Chamomile Flower Extract
KRAVE beauty Great Barrier Relief.
With:
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Natural Moisturising Factors
And more! This is like a barrierâs dream lol!
*I havenât tried it, but itâs RAVED about by professionals!
With:
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Natural Moisturising Factors
And more! This is like a barrierâs dream lol!
*I havenât tried it, but itâs RAVED about by professionals!
LIKE BUTTER by @topicals.
With:
- Niacinamide
- Shea Butter
- Ceramides
- Licorice Root Extract
- Cholesterol
- Hyaluronic Acid
+ All the pictured ingredients!
*Currently testing this out, but everyone else seems to LOVE this!
With:
- Niacinamide
- Shea Butter
- Ceramides
- Licorice Root Extract
- Cholesterol
- Hyaluronic Acid
+ All the pictured ingredients!
*Currently testing this out, but everyone else seems to LOVE this!
The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment!
With:
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Jojoba Seed Oil
- Hyaluronic Acid
THIS PRODUCT IS THE TRUTH YALL. BUY IT!
With:
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Jojoba Seed Oil
- Hyaluronic Acid
THIS PRODUCT IS THE TRUTH YALL.
BUY IT!
Iâm gonna stop here bc my brain is off, but yeah! If you have any questions, leave them below and Iâll answer them!
Remember, if you wreck your barrier, strip it to the bare minimum, for at least two weeks (maybe more), until you see IMPROVEMENTS!
Remember, if you wreck your barrier, strip it to the bare minimum, for at least two weeks (maybe more), until you see IMPROVEMENTS!
Your barrier is THE most important thing fr. Everything youâre treating wonât work without a STRONG barrier.
My biggest tip is to incorporate barrier repairing products in whatever regimen you have.
Treating acne/pih etc? Make sure you have barrier repairing stuff in there!
My biggest tip is to incorporate barrier repairing products in whatever regimen you have.
Treating acne/pih etc? Make sure you have barrier repairing stuff in there!
