anyway let’s talk about hyperpigmentation, okay? okay.

THREAD. https://twitter.com/theskinducer/status/1352059417609588737

Hyperpigmentation is when your skin produces excess melanin, i.e. parts of your skin darken. It is commonly referred to as dark spots.

What does hyperpigmentation look like? This can present anywhere on the body. Hyperpigmentation in my face isn’t severe but it’s an example!

It’s caused my excess production of melanin, so what causes THAT?

1. Inflammation
2. Hormonal Fluctuations
3. Friction
4. Unprotected Sun Exposure

Knowing the CAUSE of your hyperpigmentation is VITAL when it comes to treating it!

Let’s start!

1. Inflammation.

If your hyperpigmentation is caused by inflammation, eg acne, an injury, eczema etc, the first step in treating it is ALWAYS reducing that inflammation.

Use anti-inflammatory ingredients like centella, licorice root, green tea, niacinamide etc.

Also, ICE YOUR ACNE! I learnt this from the brilliant @caveofbeauty and it has saved me sooooo much unnecessary hyperpigmentation lol, so do it!

Icing reduces inflammation, therefore reducing severity of hyperpigmentation caused by that inflammation. A godsend fr!

2. Hormonal Fluctuations.

My best advice for you if you think you’re having hyperpigmentation (or acne) due to your hormones is to SEE A DOCTOR, so they can confirm/deny your suspicions, and put you on the right track for treatment!

3. Friction.

This may seem obvious, but to treat this, start by reducing the friction.

If you use a facial brush, opt for your fingers to cleanse instead.
If you sleep on a cotton pillowcase, opt for silk or satin instead.

Lubricate and hydrate your skin, so friction is less!

4. Unprotected Sun Exposure.

I don’t think I need to say this, LOL, but wear your sunscreen.

Not only do the UV rays from the sun worsen hyperpigmentation, but heat from it also increase melanocyte activity hence worsening hyperpigmentation. Keep cool, pls luv.

Alright, let’s get into TREATMENT after solving the causation issue.

To successfully treat hyperpigmentation, you need a healthy barrier and SPF, to begin with.

You cannot treat hyperpigmentation if your treatments refuse to work due to an impaired barrier.

And you need SPF.

If you use SPF, skin is hydrated and your barrier is intact, then we can go IN in.

You’ll need 2 things: Tyrosinase inhibitors and exfoliation.

Let’s start with what y’all already know: exfoliation.

Exfoliation is the process of sloughing off dead skin from the topmost layer of the epidermis. This naturally happens bc skin cells turn over approximately every 28 days, this slows down with age e.g increase to every 40 days (example pls).

But when treating hyperpigmentation, you’ll want to speed up this process by using a topical exfoliant.

You’d need to use an exfoliant 1-3x weekly, depending on how much your skin can take.

I prefer using a chemical exfoliant, so I’ll list out ingredients that fall under that.

BHA:

Salicylic Acid

AHA:

Mandelic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
Tartaric Acid

PHA:

Gluconolactone
Lactobionic Acid

Enzymes: (will appear on products as)

Pumpkin
Papaya
Pineapple
Rice

And more!

Other ways to speed up cell turnover is through use of retinoids for example:

Retinol
Retinaldehyde (retinal)
Tretinoin
Isotretinoin

Be careful cus these (and other exfoliants) can be extremely if not used properly.

^^^ can be extremely drying*

BTW Your use of retinoids + other exfoliants shoukdnt exceed 3x weekly.

Now let’s get into tyrosinase inhibitors! Tyrosinase inhibitors are ingredient that control the excess production of melanin. Depending on WHICH one, you’ll have to be careful and I’d recommend using only under the care of a professional.

Examples include:
Niacinamide
Vitamin C (not my fave, i prefer it for its antioxidant properties).
Tranexamic Acid
Kojic Acid
Azelaic Acid
Hydroquinone (I’d only recommend usage under professional monitoring).

I’m also looking into dioic acid for hyperpigmentation!

Obviously, there’s lots of exfoliants and tyrosinase inhibitors, but these are common ones that are easy to find.

My tip is finding a product with MULTIPLE tyrosinase inhibitors, because that will help treat your hyperpigmentation from many angles!

So let’s get into products! I will post products that contain these ingredients! I will put a disclaimer for products that I have NOT tried but contain the ingredients!

I’ll open with 2020s hyperpigmentation, WOC owned too!
Faded by @topicals!

With:

- Kojic Acid
- Tranexamic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Azelaic Acid
- Melatonin
- Centella Extract
- Licorice Root

*Currently testing this out. It smells like rotten roasted chicken, but it’s bearable.

Another black owned (UK based) business. Correct by @atlasbeauty_!

With:

- Niacinamide
- Kojic Acid
- Tranexamic Acid
- Alpha Arbutin (a tyrosinase inhibitor that i forgot to mention)
- Licorice Root
- Allantoin

*I haven’t tried this yet, but I will!

A cheap option from GOW, the Alpha Arbutin + Kojic Acid Serum.

Contains:

- Alpha Arbutin
- Kojic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C
- Mulberry Extract

I have tried this out, but it does take patience and consistency to see results!

The Ordinary 10% Mandelic Acid + HA.
Inexpensive Chemical Exfoliant!

Contains:

- Mandelic Acid
- Hyaluronic Acid

I tried it, loved it and still use it! Very, very gentle.

Deviant Skincare Gentle Resurfacing Liquid (No 1 on my wishlist fr!)

With:

- Salicylic Acid
- Mandelic Acid
- Lactic Acid
- Glycolic Acid
- Malic Acid
- Gluconalactone
- Licorice Root
- Green Tea Extract

*I can’t wait to try this LOL, but ppl seem to love it!

Advanced Rejuvinating Concepts Melanin Cleanser.

With:

- Kojic Acid
- Cranberry Extract

Definitely has a scent, if you don’t like that skip. For treating hyperpigmentation, you have to use this with supporting products cus this is a wash off treatment.

*Currently testing out.

@PaulasChoice_UK 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment! I love this one.

With:

- Retinol
- Bakuchiol
- Vitamin C
- Peptides
- Ceramides
- Licorice Root
- Allantoin

I love this product! It’s super gentle, and a lovely beginner retinol imo!

There’s so many products for hyperpigmentation, some that I’ve forgotten! If I do remember some more, I’ll add to this, but these are all good starting points.

Other options include physical treatments, which would require seeing a professional! Treatment options include:

- Chemical Peels
- Microneedling
- Microdermabrasion
- Dermaplaning
- Laser

Please don’t try to do any of these at home, because you will destroy your skin.

If you have any personalised questions on which treatment options suit you best, PLEASE book a consultation with a professional!

There’s so many lovely ones offering online consultations for a small fee, issa pandemic. You don’t have to go outside.

If you have any NON-personal questions, please go ahead and I’ll answer them!

Another black-owned, Nigerian-owned brand! @Viviglowskin Antispot Face Cream!

With:
- Sepiwhite MSH
- Alpha Arbutin
- Kojic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
- Allantoin
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Glycerin