#plamoSE
So, with the new year and all that I though we should take a look ahead and try to catch a glimpse of the modeling future!
I think we are rapidly approaching the point where 3D printing will be able to replace resin casting.
Here’s why (thread):
(1/18)
So, with the new year and all that I though we should take a look ahead and try to catch a glimpse of the modeling future!
I think we are rapidly approaching the point where 3D printing will be able to replace resin casting.
Here’s why (thread):
(1/18)
A good resin printer is now available for under €300. Splash out €800 and you will get the top of the line.
I have recently had the opportunity to see for myself what one of the best ones are capable of and thought I would share that with you all.
(2/18)
I have recently had the opportunity to see for myself what one of the best ones are capable of and thought I would share that with you all.
(2/18)
How it began: my friend @SweShaggy has acquired an @anycubic3dprint Photon Mono X, which is a 4k resolution, monochromatic LED-screen liquid resin printer with a fairly large print area. Resolution is good because it means finer detail!
Link: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/anycubic-photon-3d-printers/products/photon-mono-x-resin-printer
(3/18)
Link: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/anycubic-photon-3d-printers/products/photon-mono-x-resin-printer
(3/18)
I mentioned needing a second Scammell engine for a project (pictured) and he generously offered to print me one - if I could find a CAD-drawing of it!
I couldn’t find one though, so I thought I could at least *try* making one myself.
(4/18)
I couldn’t find one though, so I thought I could at least *try* making one myself.
(4/18)
By sheer luck I stumbled upon @tinkercad and immediately fell in love.
It’s a free, browser based CAD tool with a very intuitive interface.
I tinkered (heh) with Bryce 3D as a kid and TinkerCAD reminded me a lot of that.
(5/18)

I tinkered (heh) with Bryce 3D as a kid and TinkerCAD reminded me a lot of that.
(5/18)
You basically have a bunch of primitive shapes (cubes, cylinders, spheres), you can create them, re-size them, group them and - importantly - make them negative and use them to cut other shapes.
It’s the MS Paint of CAD and I love it.
(6/18)
It’s the MS Paint of CAD and I love it.
(6/18)
So, I set about creating an extra engine for my Scammell in 1:35th scale by looking at pictures of the real thing and looking at the one I got when I bought Thunder Models kit.
Here’s how that went - I didn’t count but I guess this is about 8-10 hours of work.
(7/18)
Here’s how that went - I didn’t count but I guess this is about 8-10 hours of work.
(7/18)
..And this is what I got in the mail today.
Printed by @SweShaggy on an Anycubic Photon Mono X using the @AmeraLabs AMD-3 Resin. Just look at the detail!!
(8/18)
Printed by @SweShaggy on an Anycubic Photon Mono X using the @AmeraLabs AMD-3 Resin. Just look at the detail!!

(8/18)
Now, let’s compare the 3D printed one (dark grey) with the polystyrene injection molded one (light grey) that I got in the box from Thunder Models.
I would argue the 3D-print is actually a lot crisper than the molded one.
(9/18)
I would argue the 3D-print is actually a lot crisper than the molded one.
(9/18)
Now, in the near future I don’t see injection molding going away, I’m no expert but I’d guess economics of large scale production are still tipped towards molding.
Resin casting, on the other hand - short production runs, high level of detail, rare subjects - PERFECT!
(10/18)
Resin casting, on the other hand - short production runs, high level of detail, rare subjects - PERFECT!
(10/18)
I’m mainly modeling Soviet 1960-1990 commercial vehicles (trucks and tractors), that’s a fairly niche topic and I’m often chasing down rare and expensive resin conversion sets.
These typically cost €50 - €200, ie. as much as or often more than the base kit itself.
(11/18)
These typically cost €50 - €200, ie. as much as or often more than the base kit itself.
(11/18)
Given that I now - thanks to @SweShaggy - had access to a 3D-printer, I wanted to see if I could make a conversion set myself.
I picked this topic, an ultra-rare (two prototypes made, none remain) Maz 7310 timber crane.
(12/18)
I picked this topic, an ultra-rare (two prototypes made, none remain) Maz 7310 timber crane.
(12/18)
The timber bed itself is easy to scratch build, but the Fiskars 120S crane is a different matter.
It seemed the perfect test subject, so I started tinkering... Did I mention I
@tinkercad?
(13/18)
It seemed the perfect test subject, so I started tinkering... Did I mention I

(13/18)
And here’s the printed result. I will use brass rod, tubes and lead wire to make the actuators, connectors and hydraulics so these are just the main components but still - I’m amazed at how this turned out.
Those bolts in the last pic are 0.3 mm wide!
(14/18)

Those bolts in the last pic are 0.3 mm wide!
(14/18)
Let’s compare the prints to a top of the line resin casting.
I bought myself the Balaton Models K-700 Kirovets as a Christmas present (at my age that’s the only way you get what you want) - it retails for €100 and it’s an absolute beauty.
(15/18) https://www.balatonmodellshop.co.uk/K-700A-1/35
I bought myself the Balaton Models K-700 Kirovets as a Christmas present (at my age that’s the only way you get what you want) - it retails for €100 and it’s an absolute beauty.
(15/18) https://www.balatonmodellshop.co.uk/K-700A-1/35
Here are some comparison shots of the 3D-prints (dark grey) and the Balaton resin castings (light).
Note: I make NO claim whatsoever of being anywhere near the Balaton guys level of skill in modeling, this is just a comparison of detail!
(16/18)
Note: I make NO claim whatsoever of being anywhere near the Balaton guys level of skill in modeling, this is just a comparison of detail!
(16/18)
To me, the only real difference where the 3D-print is behind is in curved surfaces - here the casting is definitely smoother.
I should mention though that this is straight from the printer - some sanding will probably remove the hard edges between the layers.
(17/18)
I should mention though that this is straight from the printer - some sanding will probably remove the hard edges between the layers.
(17/18)