I walked to the edge of London today. This is how London ends.
Nairn’s London took me here to Cranham. “Of all the ways in which London meets its countryside, this is the least credible. When the Greenbelt came into force in 1938, the outward swell of building stopped dead...”
Upminster Mill, 1799 - “A great surprise amongst all the pre-war villas: big, stark and well kept up. Octagonal weatherboarded body, complicated curved cap, everything as trim and crisp as the hull of a ship - a good reminder that windmills were vital factories”
Also visited (but of course closed) the Black Lion pub in Plaistow - “This is the East End equivalent of the Crown and Greyhound in Dulwich. Think of everything un-pub-like, put it together with flair and there you are: one of the true modern equivalents of the gin palace.”
And to the damn good Abbey Mills Pumping Station- “It pumps sewage and it was built in 1868 by Bazelgette of the Embankment. It pumps vitality too, and the conviction you look for in Victorian churches and rarely find.”
And just a stone’s throw from there, Three Mills - “They form a focus in the otherwise too-spread valley, a place like a village green.... a formidable spinster who needed a cuddle by gentle buildings to make her complete.” (One of Nairn’s worst lines, for sure)
And finally Stratford Broadway - “This is the real centre of the East End now that Stepney has been broken on the planner’s wheel. And a lovely shape it is too, when you can see it for the traffic: a long funnel widening and curling around one of the hungriest looking churches.”
Bonus round: remember when IKEA announced they were building a neighbourhood in London back in 2012? Well, here’s what it looks like now. 😬😬😬
You can follow @BrendanCormier.
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