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Much of last winter was spent on a longish #Karnatakatrail. A journey filled with forts, tombs & even a forgotten city. But above all were the temples, some loved and in-worship, others lost. Such as the one in these pics, the Panchlingeshvara Temple, Maruturu, #Kalaburagi dist.
Maruturu, a half-hour drive frm #Kalaburagi, hides its heritage well. The place came on my radar as its temples were mentioned in an old heritage site list of the district shared with me by @TeamGSquare. In 10 days, I managed to cover abt 60% of the list. Imagine the no of sites!
Maruturu, #Kalaburagi, also has a fortified structure. Interesting place, unfortunately an ascetic who lives within was away when I visited. Perhaps he could have shared some stories. Place reminded me of a Maratha structure. #Karnatakatrail
The stepped tank inside the Kashi Vishwanatha temple, Maruturu, #Kalaburagi, #Karnatakatrail. Someday will chronicle every step of this magnificent state that I have seen. Because sites like this are being lost & no one will remember that they even existed. A record is reqd.
Over the weekend, will do a virtual walk-through of Kalaburagi dist, incl the hq. An interesting town, it seems to have more tombs/sq km than any other place I have seen; more than in either Bijapur or Bidar. Pic is of one of a pair, aptly called Jod Gumbad. Has a museum within.
My exploration of Kalaburagi town began at its fort. Similarities with Delhi's Tughlakabad are striking not just for the massive, battlemented walls but even for the overgrown parts....
Perhaps the similarity is inevitable, given that the Bahamani sultans carried with them the architectural traditions of their former masters, the Tughlaks - traditions that are seen in forts and mosques all over the region.
Another 'architectural tradition' of the Tughalks and the Khiljis carried forward in the Deccan was the destruction of pre-existing structures and use of the material in new building. Which explains the state of many temples in the region around Kalaburagi. More on this later...
The penetration of the Deccan was a slow, often brutal process frm the 1296 Khilji assault on Devagiri, the Yadava fortress, which later became Daulatabad. Once indep, the Bahamanis moved their base south, to Kalaburagi. The town remained their capital frm 1350 to around 1430.
Found some people visiting the fort in a tonga, a traditional horse-drawn vehicle, which feels quaint in this time. #Kalaburagi #Karnatakatrail A nice, pollution-free way to explore a heritage site.
That's the Jama Masjid inside Kalaburagi fort. Most official versions date this to 1367. I found it sophisticated for that date, esp when comparing it to mosque architecture elsewhere in the region. Perhaps the accounts that say it was an audience hall originally are correct.
Most of what is seen of #Kalaburagi fort today dates to the 16th-17th century period, when it was no longer a capital. This period also saw metal foundries coming in, remains of which are the cannons here. You wouldn't want to be at the receiving end of these...
As a visitor wanders through #Kalaburagi fort, many signs of usage of pre-existing material become visible. #Karnatakatrail
Interesting contrast in the region in & around #Kalaburagi: Town is dotted with dusty tombs while villages around have temples, some in ruins but still worshipped. The Jod Gumbad museum in town shows glimpses of its past. This #Karnatakatrail will alternate b/w town and villages.
The #Karnatakatrail through #Kalaburagi in Bhankuru vil. Apart from several Chalukyan temples, site of a 13th century CE Jain basadi. Images include what seemed to be a Bahubali icon.
At first glance, there is little Petha Shirur vil, #Kalaburagi, has to interest a traveller. But a little probing through its winding lanes reveals a gem: the 12th century CE, Chalukyan, Mallikarjuna temple. The biggest surprise - its still in worship.
But as in many structures of this age, one part of the temple is now vulnerable, its tank. Now separated from the main shrine by walls and a street, the large tank is now crumbling. Petha Shirur, #Kalaburagi, #Karnatakatrail
Not all of Petha Shirur's temples are in good shape. This is one of twin shrines called the Ramalinga & Bhimalinga, located outside the vil. Needs reconstruction and scattered idols around need a place of worship. #Kalaburagi, #Karnatakatrail.
The shrine that I found hardest to locate in Petha Shirur vil, #Kalaburagi, was a #Jain basadi. Locals incorrectly call it 'Buddhan Gudi'. It finds itself below street level today. https://twitter.com/Hiddenheritage/status/1206589125555408896?s=20
As I said earlier, this thread will swing between the contrasts of #Kalaburagi, between the temples of the countryside & the tombs etc of the district hq. In the latter, when a visitor stands on any rooftop, domes & minarets appear. Tmrw, this thread will head back to the town.
Back in #Kalaburagi, the Chor Gumbad - sometimes referred to as the Shor Gumbad - is built on a high rock & visible from most spots in the town. Interestingly, not a tomb but built to commemorate victory of a Bahamani ruler over his brother.
#Kalaburagi perhaps has more tombs/sq km than other Indian towns. Some were originally interspersed with water bodies. But with those going dry/ being built over, what remains is a vast necropolis. Some pics frm Haft Gumbad, tombs of seven Bahamani rulers incl some double tombs.
The focal point of #Kalaburagi's tomb-building? The dargah of Bande Nawaz, one of the Deccan's most interesting characters. Perhaps more political than spiritual, he was born in Delhi & his family was part of Mohd Tughlak's forced move to the Deccan. https://twitter.com/Hiddenheritage/status/1221132683306127360?s=20
A narration of Bande Nawaz's interesting life would be too lengthy to fit this platform - he lived to be over a hundred -in a life that moved from Delhi to the Deccan. Those interested can read abt him in the second chapter of this very well-written book- https://www.amazon.in/Social-History-Deccan-1300-1761-Cambridge/dp/0521254841/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=a+social+history+of+the+deccan&qid=1609348311&sr=8-1
The funerary architecture of #Kalaburagi was a break from the thread's path in rural areas. Tomorrow, we go back to country roads, to explore the region's lost temples. https://twitter.com/Hiddenheritage/status/1207951237561212930?s=20
#Kalaburagi temple trail again - The 12th cen CE Ishvara temple in Nimbargi vil standing & in worship. Shrine also preserves inscriptions mentioning Kalyana Chalukya kings Someshvara III & Vikramaditya. Shows value of temples as repositories of history. #Karnatakatrail
More pics frm the 12th century CE Ishvara temple, #Nimbargi vil, #Kalaburagi. Good to see a temple which is still a congregation pt for the local community. #Karnatakatrail
Found it hard to believe that this simple shrine is frm the 11th century CE, but the evidence of an inscription found here was irrefutable. Inscription included a mention of the Kalyana Chalukyas. Pics of the Kallinatheshvara Temple, Doranahalli, #Yadgir. #Karnatakatrail.
Sometimes, while on a quest, one tends to follow an instinct. I frequently do and that took me to Sirwal, #Yadgir. Where, across a stream, I tumbled into a rich complex of Rashtrakuta & Chalukyan temples. Dedicated to Shiva. More on this tomorrow. #Karnatakatrail
Twenty! That's the no. of ancient temples Sirwal, in #Yadgir, still has. The finest lie across a stream, hidden away by vegetation but some still in worship. A mix of Rashtrakuta and Chalukyan. A grp of pilgrims back from Sabarimala walked me through the place. #Karnatakatrail
Perhaps the most interesting feature from the Sirwal temples is an unlisted, unprotected stepwell in the midst. Carved with Ramayana iconography on its walls, the stepwell remains in use. #Yadgir, #Karnatakatrail. A video:
