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I’m photographing a $1,000 lingerie set this morning, and thinking of how most people would insist the set was “overpriced” and could be found at Wal-Mart or was made by the same factories that manufacture for Wal-Mart.
In truth, the set is constructed of French Chantilly Lace made by Sophie Hallette in the Calais region of France with Leavers Lace machines that are over a century old and take at least 2 people 2 months to thread by hand.
Loading the loom with a new pattern takes at least a day. All lace patterns are drawn by hand - down to every thread. Someone walks up and down the machine to monitor it as the lace is made to help prevent major defects.
Once the lace is made, any faults or defects are corrected by hand, and any loose threads are trimmed by hand. Any embroidery or embellishment on the lace (as there is on this set), is also done by hand. The people who work with laces of this quality are top level specialists.
The lace is then marked up appropriately (because none of these employees are working for free), to be sold to, most typically, fashion houses and designers.
As you can, there’s already been a ton of labor involved, and we haven’t even gotten to the lingerie-making portion yet.
As you can, there’s already been a ton of labor involved, and we haven’t even gotten to the lingerie-making portion yet.
This particular lace was purchased by a single designer for a limited collection. When a designer purchases small quantities, even at a wholesale or discounted rate, these typically cost more per meter than what larger companies pay.
The designer for this set has a degree in lingerie design, is the recipient of numerous awards and accolades in intimate apparel, and currently works on an exclusively bespoke basis with a preference for clients who allow her total creative freedom.
The lingerie maker then has to spend time considering the textile, which relies on her acquired experience. What garment or garments would it be best suited to? What garments are customers most likely to buy? How best to minimize waste?
In this case, the designer chose a relatively simple design to highlight an extraordinary lace. The designer then had to create a set of patterns, hand-dye all elastics, casings, and fastenings, and acquire other fabric components, such as tulle for the bra and silk for the brief
The designer also had to purchase all the other metal components (which are plated in 24k gold), finishing details (such as a real freshwater pearl), and all the other threads and bits and bobs.
She hasn’t yet begun to sew.
She hasn’t yet begun to sew.
The designer cuts every pattern piece by hand. Including fastenings, trims, and other components, each set contains dozens of individual pieces.
Sewing a single set from start to finish takes several days, with some techniques, like lace appliqué, taking hours on their own.
Sewing a single set from start to finish takes several days, with some techniques, like lace appliqué, taking hours on their own.
The set is then marked up appropriately to be sold to the lingerie boutique (since she wasn’t working for free either). The boutique pays for the international freight, insurance, as well as customs/duties/taxes to receive the garments.
It still has not arrived to the shop.
It still has not arrived to the shop.
Once the boutique receives, they arrange a photoshoot to promote the garment. This includes hiring a photographer, model, MUA, hairstylist, and location. The boutique also has to pay employees, rent, overhead, taxes, insurance & other expenses. This determines the final markup.
Finally! After all this, you are able to walk into the store or shop online and purchase the garment. And suddenly, hopefully, the idea of a $1,000 lingerie set doesn’t seem so far-fetched and unreasonable anymore.
I love how many people have responded with, “$1,000?? That’s it???” to various points in this thread because that shows you *really* get it.
And just to be clear, this is a brand and boutique I both know well, working together in an ethical and equitable arrangement. But if you get to the end of this thread and wonder, “Mmh...maybe that could cost more?,” then you’re thinking about labor in the right way.
And here’s the bra being sewn at 4x speed:
