After I posted some rudimentary #Necromunda terrain work, I noticed in the props a real common thread of many of #WarhammerCommunity owning ZM terrain but it largely being unpainted. Today I’ll run through some terrain I’m painting. Hopefully yours will feel less daunting.
I recommend batch painting, as the techniques I use are geared towards speed. I undercoated these pieces in black and am armed with an Underhivers best friend - sponges. Grimdark should be about speed and texture, and i prefer sponges for this as the stamping motions build slowly
I recommend batch painting, as the techniques I use are geared towards speed. I undercoated these pieces in black and am armed with an Underhivers best friend - sponges. Grimdark should be about speed and texture, and i prefer sponges for this as the stamping motions build slowly
I recommend batch painting, as the techniques I use are geared towards speed. I undercoated these pieces in black and am armed with an Underhivers best friend - sponges. Grimdark should be about speed and texture, and i prefer sponges for this as the stamping motions build slowly
I recommend batch painting, as the techniques I use are geared towards speed. I undercoated these pieces in black and am armed with an Underhivers best friend - sponges. Grimdark should be about speed and texture, and i prefer sponges for this as the stamping motions build slowly
I recommend batch painting, as the techniques I use are geared towards speed. I undercoated these pieces in black and am armed with an Underhivers best friend - sponges. Grimdark should be about speed and texture, and i prefer sponges for this as the stamping motions build slowly
First I lay down mournefang brown using quick stamping, stabbing motions. Try to NOT do what you do with minis - avoid getting lost in details, even coverage, etc. time is of the essance and the more you speed thru the better.
First I lay down mournefang brown using quick stamping, stabbing motions. Try to NOT do what you do with minis - avoid getting lost in details, even coverage, etc. time is of the essance and the more you speed thru the better.
First I lay down mournefang brown using quick stamping, stabbing motions. Try to NOT do what you do with minis - avoid getting lost in details, even coverage, etc. time is of the essance and the more you speed thru the better.
First I lay down mournefang brown using quick stamping, stabbing motions. Try to NOT do what you do with minis - avoid getting lost in details, even coverage, etc. time is of the essance and the more you speed thru the better.
First I lay down mournefang brown using quick stamping, stabbing motions. Try to NOT do what you do with minis - avoid getting lost in details, even coverage, etc. time is of the essance and the more you speed thru the better.
Next, repeat the process with zandri dust. Try to remove more paint on your sponge by pre-stamping on your pallet. The mournefang you want sloppy, heavy coverage, the zandri dust not so much.
Next, repeat the process with zandri dust. Try to remove more paint on your sponge by pre-stamping on your pallet. The mournefang you want sloppy, heavy coverage, the zandri dust not so much.
Next, repeat the process with zandri dust. Try to remove more paint on your sponge by pre-stamping on your pallet. The mournefang you want sloppy, heavy coverage, the zandri dust not so much.
Next, repeat the process with zandri dust. Try to remove more paint on your sponge by pre-stamping on your pallet. The mournefang you want sloppy, heavy coverage, the zandri dust not so much.
Next, repeat the process with zandri dust. Try to remove more paint on your sponge by pre-stamping on your pallet. The mournefang you want sloppy, heavy coverage, the zandri dust not so much.
Next comes a drybrush of terminatus stone. Normally i’d say use a soft makeup brush like Elf brand but as these are cornerpieces/connecters I wanted them to stand out more so I went chunkier. Focus on hard edges, corners and overhead.
Next comes a drybrush of terminatus stone. Normally i’d say use a soft makeup brush like Elf brand but as these are cornerpieces/connecters I wanted them to stand out more so I went chunkier. Focus on hard edges, corners and overhead.
Next comes a drybrush of terminatus stone. Normally i’d say use a soft makeup brush like Elf brand but as these are cornerpieces/connecters I wanted them to stand out more so I went chunkier. Focus on hard edges, corners and overhead.
Next comes a drybrush of terminatus stone. Normally i’d say use a soft makeup brush like Elf brand but as these are cornerpieces/connecters I wanted them to stand out more so I went chunkier. Focus on hard edges, corners and overhead.
Next comes a drybrush of terminatus stone. Normally i’d say use a soft makeup brush like Elf brand but as these are cornerpieces/connecters I wanted them to stand out more so I went chunkier. Focus on hard edges, corners and overhead.
Next is metallics. A drybrushing of leadbelcher, followed by necron compound. Be sporatic - pick your spots and hit the walkway areas since those surfaces get wear and tear. I also covered certain areas like the chains during this time.
Next is metallics. A drybrushing of leadbelcher, followed by necron compound. Be sporatic - pick your spots and hit the walkway areas since those surfaces get wear and tear. I also covered certain areas like the chains during this time.
Next is metallics. A drybrushing of leadbelcher, followed by necron compound. Be sporatic - pick your spots and hit the walkway areas since those surfaces get wear and tear. I also covered certain areas like the chains during this time.
Next is metallics. A drybrushing of leadbelcher, followed by necron compound. Be sporatic - pick your spots and hit the walkway areas since those surfaces get wear and tear. I also covered certain areas like the chains during this time.
Next is metallics. A drybrushing of leadbelcher, followed by necron compound. Be sporatic - pick your spots and hit the walkway areas since those surfaces get wear and tear. I also covered certain areas like the chains during this time.
I want to add two things here - at around 2-3 hrs of work you can be done there. You can also do more than two pieces at a time - I just did so for Twitter’s pic caps per tweet. I also want to emphasise that you can do the same thing with different colors. This just fits my goal.
If you want to continue on weathering comes in here. You can do as much or as little at you want. A technique I learned from Mark Bedford is capillary weathering. A spraygun like this will be your best friend. Spritz the surfaces then flick different inks on. Let them dry as is.
If you want to continue on weathering comes in here. You can do as much or as little at you want. A technique I learned from Mark Bedford is capillary weathering. A spraygun like this will be your best friend. Spritz the surfaces then flick different inks on. Let them dry as is.
If you want to continue on weathering comes in here. You can do as much or as little at you want. A technique I learned from Mark Bedford is capillary weathering. A spraygun like this will be your best friend. Spritz the surfaces then flick different inks on. Let them dry as is.
If you want to continue on weathering comes in here. You can do as much or as little at you want. A technique I learned from Mark Bedford is capillary weathering. A spraygun like this will be your best friend. Spritz the surfaces then flick different inks on. Let them dry as is.
Think about staining, rust and grime. Do you work where there is regular walkways? Notice how they are scuffed and dirty and darker. Stamping rhinox hide followed by typhus corrosion does wonders, and agrax or athonian camoshade around rivets or crevases makes great grit or mold
For the rust around the bolts I use a bit of ryza rust mixed with contrast medium. Lahmian medium is better for glazes but for washes in crevaces Contrast medium does wonders.
Nevermind the blood, btw. The Butcher’s Block is a bad place since the Corpse Starch Riots.
For the rust around the bolts I use a bit of ryza rust mixed with contrast medium. Lahmian medium is better for glazes but for washes in crevaces Contrast medium does wonders.Nevermind the blood, btw. The Butcher’s Block is a bad place since the Corpse Starch Riots.
For the rust around the bolts I use a bit of ryza rust mixed with contrast medium. Lahmian medium is better for glazes but for washes in crevaces Contrast medium does wonders.Nevermind the blood, btw. The Butcher’s Block is a bad place since the Corpse Starch Riots.
For the rust around the bolts I use a bit of ryza rust mixed with contrast medium. Lahmian medium is better for glazes but for washes in crevaces Contrast medium does wonders.Nevermind the blood, btw. The Butcher’s Block is a bad place since the Corpse Starch Riots.
For the rust around the bolts I use a bit of ryza rust mixed with contrast medium. Lahmian medium is better for glazes but for washes in crevaces Contrast medium does wonders.Nevermind the blood, btw. The Butcher’s Block is a bad place since the Corpse Starch Riots.
And that’s pretty much it folks! Maybe 4-5 hrs nets you some decent terrain if you don’t get lost in the minutiae. You can also shave time off with a heatgun but its not needed.
I hope this inspires folks to tackle their stuff & experiment. Good luck & happy painting!
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