Thread by @KikiDoodleTweet, Every time I see a "don't declaw your cat" post SO many [...]

Every time I see a "don't declaw your cat" post SO many people reply VERY upset. "You don't know the situation!"

Okay, realistically the situation is people are bad at preventing their cats from damaging their stuff, so my "Don't declaw your cat" post is a thread on prevention:

Cats absolutely will scratch stuff. Fact. Don't get a cat if you can't handle this. BUT, you can still have nice furniture if you also give your cats outlets or manage their nails. Preferably BOTH.

Cats scratch to do several things:
1. remove the outer dead layer of their nails, sharpening them.
2. leave a scent/mark territory. They have scent glands in their paws, so even a declawed cat will still "scratch" because of this.
3. To stretch and relax and release anxiety.

Cats also have PREFERENCES for what they want to scratch and every cat is different. Some like horizontal surfaces (like a dead log) others like vertical surfaces (tree). Your best bet is providing for both.

Cats will have preferred textures. It's a GOOD idea to avoid using the same texture in their scratching posts in non scratching areas as that's confusing. If your scratching post is the same texture as your carpet, you can't blame them for thinking the carpet is also scratch okay

If you DO have texture confusion, place an appropriate scratchable object near the object of confusion. Couch they like to scratch? Put a scratcher nearby and reward them for using the correct outlet.

Reason #3 ALSO includes getting your attention. If you ignore kitty when they're being chill, but yell at them when they scratch your rug, they'll scratch for you to look at them. Having outlets in places you hang out gives kitty a way to ask POLITELY for attention.

Attaching a few videos in this thread so bear with me if you're reading it live.

EVERY time your cat scratches the right object, tell them how GOOD they are. They'll do it on purpose to get your attention. Let it. This is the good behavior version of knocking stuff over.

You can use toys or treats as a form of getting your cat interested in their scratching post. But acknowledging it helps them, too!

This post is currently near some drawers that are made of a weaved grass that Piggy just wants to SCRATCH. He now uses the post, instead.

This is a GREAT GREAT giant scratching post. Piggy isn't small but note how he can STRETCH all the way out! This is very good for vertical scratchers. Many scratching posts are too tiny for your cat which is why they'll go for the nice tall couch.

https://www.chewy.com/frisco-335-in-sisal-cat-scratching/dp/155162

My two girls are horizontal scratchers. When they want my attention or are just in a good mood they'll walk over to their "scratching rugs" to scratch. These are the designated CAT rugs and the only rugs they scratch. They really want to scratch carpet so this was my solution.

A LOT of horizontal scratchers love these types of products:
https://www.chewy.com/all-kind-wave-cat-scratcher-toy/dp/201479

https://www.chewy.com/smartykat-scratch-scroll-cat/dp/135026

When I noticed mine went for a particular $3 thrift rug, I just decided it was an inexpensive trait I would praise and bought a new cheap rug hahaa. Thus I have the rug.

I found the "meow" mat later at a thrift store. It just happens to be a material I know they like and I thought it was cute. Again by paying attention to the material your pets like you can both get items they'll enjoy scratching AND avoid buying nice furniture in that material.

In both of my videos you can see how I PRAISE the positive behavior. IF they scratch in the wrong place, move them to the correct scratcher, run your nails over it, and praise kitty. You may need to lift their paws against it.

Repeat this, use treats and toys, and pay attention.

I'll state again you need to keep the scratching item NEAR the object of desire for it to be most effective. When the cat wants to scratch the object that gets them yelled at, they'll easily switch to scratching the nearby object that gets them praise.

Hiding scratchers in the corners of your house, on the other hand, doesn't encourage kitty. This is the equivalent of trying to eat healthy by putting healthy snacks across the room while always keeping a candy bar on your desk. Make the choice EASY for kitty.

Prevention part 2 is NAIL TRIMMING. I never realized how many people had a ton of issues with trimming their pets nails until recently, and a lot of it is fear of injury to yourself or your pet. Nail trimming may not be FUN for kitty, but you can easily train them to handle it.

There are a ton of nail trimmers you can buy for your cat. This style is common with pet groomers and works a bit like a guillitine for the nail

https://www.chewy.com/resco-original-cat-nail-clippers/dp/139734

You pull and it slices through the nail very quickly. Used frequently for dogs, too.

Personally, I prefer this style.

https://www.chewy.com/frisco-nail-clippers-cats-small-dogs/dp/233481

It's very small and handheld and I feel it gives me a lot of control. Due to being smaller it is much easier to see where I'm cutting the nail. Both trimmers work fine.

"Where do I cut the nail?"

The quick is the part of the nail that has blood in it. If you cut this your cat will bleed a little. The REST of the nail is just nail and hurts no more than you nibbling the ends of your fingernails.

Here's a rough guide.

If you INFREQUENTLY (or never) cut the nails, the guide above is good. Infrequently cut nails seem to have a larger quick. You can always cut LESS then slowly cut a little bit more at a time, paying attention to kitty's reactions.

My sphynxes get their nails cut pretty dang SHORT almost to the quick since they love to walk on my shoulders and crawl up my back. This was some freshly cut Archimedes nails, cut extra short as it was summer and he was a shoulder kitty. It's quite short.

Cutting this short does risk the chance of hitting the quick. You can always keep some Styptic powder on hand so if you DO accidentally hit the quick, you can stop the bleeding.

https://www.chewy.com/21st-century-essential-pet-cat/dp/188159

But NORMAL nail cutting you'll find can be fast and easy and painless.

"But my pet hates their nails being cut"

So? Train them. It's for their own good.
Start with 1 paw or 1-2 nails if they're extra wiggly.

Hold them in one arm or flip them on their back and pinch out a toe, and cut the nail. Reward with a treat. You don't NEED a partner.

DO NOT LET THEM RUN AWAY. Calmly tell them they're good, and release only when they are also calm (Or at least behaving) If you release every time they kick off of you or yell, they'll learn that kicking, biting or yelling gets them out of nail time. That's a bad behavior.

If they realize that nail time only ends when YOU decide it ends, they'll be happier to listen even if they're NOT happy with it. Start small if kitty is not used to nail time, and work your way to a whole nail trimming session without bad behavior (biting, scratching, etc)

Gandalf is a very good girl at getting her nails done. You can hear her complain a little, and you can SEE her unhappy tail wiggling but she patiently waits because I trained her to deal with it.

"Yes but my cat is not a pure bred cat who grew up with human contact. They are a feral who hates all human touch and interaction"
OH BOY!!

Yeah that's my Pandora. She is uh...
not a fan...
of humans.
or touching.
ESPECIALLY not holding.

We do her nails every 1-2 weeks.

Oh no I broke the thread!

https://twitter.com/KikiDoodleTweet/status/1338235104175386625?s=20

It continues there

https://twitter.com/KikiDoodleTweet/status/1338235104175386625?s=20

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