Surf forecasters had been watching a storm in the North Pacific that had pummeled Hawaii’s North Shore with big surf a few days earlier.

Thanks to satellite tech, forecasters can predict a week in advance when swells will slam ashore around the globe. https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-12-11/big-waves-build-mavericks-san-francisco
Swells are generated by winds from big storms.

The waves produced are dependent upon three main factors: the strength of the storm, its duration and the size of its wind fetch. The fetch is the length of open water over which the wind blows. https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-12-11/big-waves-build-mavericks-san-francisco
Waves with longer wavelengths travel faster.

An interval of more than 16 seconds is considered ideal for Mavericks. These longer-interval waves are also the ones with the most energy extending deepest beneath the water level, generating the unique break. https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-12-11/big-waves-build-mavericks-san-francisco
As a wave travels toward shore and it encounters shallower water over the reef formation, wave energy converges, lifting up the monster surf at Mavericks. https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-12-11/big-waves-build-mavericks-san-francisco
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