Thread by @batbootyho, So, I wanted to make a thread of eco-friendly/ethical designers, but before [...]

So, I wanted to make a thread of eco-friendly/ethical designers, but before I do so I wanted to explain WHY fashion should cost more if we're producing it ethically, and where we fall short. Let me break down who makes your clothes. This varies of course, and I'm no expert.

These are just MY experiences.

The design team: These people generally get paid ethically. Fashion is capitalism's darling and the industry has a standard of unethical work hours and standards despite this. I'm digressing a bit here, but a lot of companies, especially higher end

ones tend to push designers into only accepting perfection, long work hours, and a system of "pay your dues" in order to chase your dream of working in fashion. The pay generally doesn't reflect this, but it CAN.

Anyway, the designer is the person designing your clothes. There are specialized areas for bigger companies, like UO has a different department for knits, tops, wovens, etc. My company is separated into Women's/Men's/Unisex, so much much smaller.

The design assistant: They can have a variety of jobs, but generally they're organizing everything for the designers, creating line sheets, making BOMs and technical sketches for the designer. This varies a lot based on needs.

Technical designer. They're making the roadmap for the pattern maker and sewist to construct your garment. They spec out how big everything should be, what stitches everything should get, spacing, etc. It requires a lot of knowledge on construction and cost.

Graphics. This is an artist who creates the graphics for your clothes AND fits them onto the clothes in a way that makes sense. They need a basic understanding of both graphic design and clothing construction and are invaluable.

The fit model. Different than a photographed model. They are your "base customer's" fit standard. A lot of companies pick different models for whatever they're making. Sweater models, jean models, underwear, etc.

Cutter/Fitter. Once you get a prototype of a garment you have to make sure it's made the way you like, with the fit you want. Generally we book a model once a week and fit all day, generally 10 hours non-stop bc models are expensive.

We then ship that out, which can cost a TON of money (generally $450 per package to our factory) and wait for a second prototype to be made by your sewing team.

Pattern maker. The person drafting the pattern your garments will be made from.

We have a few in our company, one who specializes in 3D pattern making, and one who uses Gerber/more traditional pattern making.

Sewing team. These are the people who get shafted.

The industry standard is paying by the amount of garments that get manufactured, as opposed to a set salary. This is where we see people not getting paid living wages, child labor, unsuitable working conditions, and just general unethical work practices.

The industry does this overseas and here in the USA (American Apparel has been known to do this.)

I'm leaving out textile manufacturers bc my company is both that and an apparel company.

This is another whole group of people that need to get paid, and textile production is not easy work, especially when you're trying to do it eco friendly.

I'm also leaving out the business side of the team bc it's not something I have a ton of exp with, but they generally-

are also paid fairly. This is also an individual team.

The gist of this is that even making one prototype usually costs thousands of dollars in paying people. That's not even the final product.

I am again, by no means an expert, I just want to open a curtain for people to see HOW MUCH goes into making one garment. Clothes are something we all wear, and even if you don't care about what you wear, I think we should all be mindful of the work that goes into creating-

something that also is one of the top pollutants in our world.

I am pro-slow fashion. We don't need as many clothes as we are producing. It's difficult because I LOVE clothing, the semiotics of it, the expression. I think it's beautiful, but I also think it contributes to-

a lot of harm that I want to see addressed. Especially in a time like the pandemic.

I'm not asking for overnight change, and I realize that this abuse is capitalism's fault, but if we challenge the way that we buy our clothes, then we are also challenging that fashion cycle.

I also want to acknowledge that class is a huge issue here, we are stuck in a cycle of underpaying our workers, and not being able to afford the stuff that IS made ethically. It feels like there's no way to stop it, but even resisting from buying one "pizza is forever" F21 shirt-

helps bc the marketing team /notices/.

I just hope we can all just take a moment to consider our own habits with clothing, bc it's no longer just the way we shelter our bodies, but a form of entertainment. I know I've been stuck in the vortex of-

"shirt give me serotonin and is $15, yes", and then being stuck with 25 shirts I haven't worn more than twice.

I just want to be clear, this thread isn't made to guilt anyone at all.

Also, damn, just thinkin about how some luxury brands do all of this and burn their unsold stock to keep it "exclusive." Expense doesn't ALWAYS mean that it was expensive to make, exclusivity and name are a factor.

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