Hmm, I can think of many "points" for cell-based meat. It's a shame that this piece didn't mention how alt meat can mitigate deforestation, air/water pollution, antibiotic resistance, the welfare of billions of animals, and ghg emissions. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/dec/04/lab-grown-meat-cultured-protein#comments
This piece falls into the category that my colleague @atrembath outlined last year: "Fake Backlash to Fake Meat." https://onezero.medium.com/the-fake-backlash-to-fake-meat-f53098bfb71b
Alternative meats -- both cell- and plant-based -- inarguably improve the environmental + ethical consequences of our food choices. There is still some question about emissions from cell-based, but across most every measure alternatives are an improvement https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2020.00134/full
If you are seeking a massive shift in how food is produced, consumed, and profited from, I can see why @jennykleeman may want to denigrate alternatives, but to ignore the real positives that would come from a shift from conventional to alternative meat consumption is disingenuous
@jan_dutkiewicz and @gnrosenberg put it well: replacing cheap meat with alternatives at places like Burger King and Dunkin wont deliver systemic change but it sure can reduce the harms within our existing system. https://www.wired.com/story/opinion-burgers-wont-save-the-planet-but-fast-food-might/