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Will be doing a hair thread today once I finish my braids cos the fraudulence and misinformation out there is wild and money is hard to come by
Okay I'm free now. Lemme start from the very basics. Density, grade, length, draw, all of that
So starting from grams. Hair is weighed in grams. An average single-drawn bundle is 50g. And you need 200g minimum to create a 100-120% density wig. A closure is about 50-70g and a frontal 100g. Anything double-drawn has about double the weight of its single-drawn form.
The standard 50g a bundle does not change. Some sellers may have 60-80g bundles, but that's unusual. Shorter length bundles will have more strands in them in order to hit the 50g weight, and thus, their wefts are longer. Longer bundles have more hair in the way of length. To...
maintain that same weight, the weft will be shorter. So it's basically like having two rectangles. One is wider than it is long, and the other longer than it is wide, but they both weigh 50g. Btw, a weft is sort of like the unrolled bundle. More appropriately, the sewn top part.
If you're going to make a longer wig then, the regular 50g*4 bundles won't suffice, or you'll end up with a thin, low density wig because longer bundles have shorter wefts and look thinner overall, even though they're the same weight.
You need 6 bundles+4*4 closure/4+13*6 closure if you're aiming for 20" and upwards. This is all using the standard 50g bundle of course. Meanwhile you can get away with three bundles and a closure for shorter lengths or two plus a frontal. This is why long wigs cost. Note this
Density's next. It is basically how full a wig is. Density applies to wigs and laces, not bundles. Bundle is to grade as density is to wig and closure/frontal. It is measured in percentages and ranges from 100% to 200%. > this exists ofc, if you fancy drag queen hair. It's rare.
100% is what I'd call regular human head density. But that's iffy because even that varies from person to person naturally. 100% is something light and flowy. A regular wig is 130%. A 'full' single-drawn one is 150%. 180% is a heavy wig. 200% is double-drawn or x2. Visuals below
Lengths are the most basic part. On an average height girl, an 8" blunt cut should just hit the bottom of your neck. 10" should sit just below your clavicles at the front. 12" is armpit length. 14", bra strap. 16-18", below bra strap. 20" should brush the small of your back.
22" is waist length. 24", top butt length. These are ideal. Anything that doesn't sit at these places is either fraudulent, or has been over-trimmed. Wavy/curly hairs look shorter than their actual lengths, and you have to stretch them out to measure from root to tip.
Now grade. Half the misinformation is here, at this side. Remember I said, density is to wig/lace, grade is to bundles. GRADE IS NOT INDICATIVE OF A HAIR'S QUALITY AND HEALTH. I REPEAT AGGRESSIVELY, GRADE DOES NOT EQUAL QUALITY NA OMO EBU MO TOO MUCH AH 
When you take a bundle, you see longer strands and shorter strands yeah? Grade is how many strands in a specific length bundle are true to length. So if I take a 14" bundle, what fraction are actual 14" strands, and what fraction are shorter 12-6" pieces or less. That's grade 
It starts from grade 5. 5a, 6, 6a, 7....they've reached 12a rn. Grade 5 had about 50% true to length strands in a bundle. It increases in that order. Grade 10 doesn't mean all the hairs are true to length though. Grade is not policed strictly. Every manufacturer has their own
One factory/vendor's grade 10 can be someone's grade 8. The 'a' they add is supposed to indicate slightly higher eyi. There can even be 10aa and all. Buying hair off of the grade alone is bad, cos there's no gold standard. Each vendor does their thing. Just vibes all round.
The higher the grade, the fuller the tips are. That's why grade 12a hair almost looks like double-drawn hair. And I know they're selling grade 12a hair out here as double-drawn to unsuspecting clients too. I'll come back to ways to tell the difference. Let's go to the almighty 
Double-drawn hair 
. First off, drawing is the process they use to remove the shorter strands from a bundle of hair. The more a bundle is drawn, the less number of short pieces remain. That's how the different grades are achieved. Double-drawn means just that, double-drawn.
. First off, drawing is the process they use to remove the shorter strands from a bundle of hair. The more a bundle is drawn, the less number of short pieces remain. That's how the different grades are achieved. Double-drawn means just that, double-drawn.
It goes through drawing twice. And one process of drawing alone is a repetition of pulling hair multiple times. This is why it tends to be top-notch hair. No vendor would go through all that trouble using low-quality hair. And it's done manually. Which is why it's expensive.
That doesn't mean all double-drawn is very very good hair though. It all depends on the vendor. One vendor's choice of hair for double-drawing could be better than another, even though the second's hair is pretty good too. Double-drawn=/=quality, even though that's the case, 92%
Super double-drawn(SDD) is just double-drawn(DD) on steroids. Like thrice drawn. The differences; bend the bundle. SDD will have like 0 short pieces and flyways, DD will have like some 2-6, grade 12a will have more. And bend it close to the tips too. The middle might deceive you.
SDD and DD bundles are not small. They're usually heavy. Grade 12a is built like a regular bundle, but is very full to the tip. And look at the wefts. SDD and DD tend to have slightly thicker wefts than grade 12a.
If you can, hold the hair straight out at the tip, then blow dry it from the top. Check how many shorter strands will fall out below because they were too short to be securely gripped by your fingers. SDD/DD shouldn't do that
Now to the things that are actually about hair health and quality. Raw, virgin, remy, non-remy, single donor, unprocessed, processed. Before I go on, lemme just say this quickly. If you want to know if it's 100% human hair, burn it
Cut a piece of the it and burn it. 100% will burn to ashes. Synthetic fibres do not burn, and will melt and clump instead. Sometimes 100% human but chemically processed hair may resist burning for a little bit, cos they coat it after processing to restore shine. But it will burn
Been at this for about an hour whew
