So who wants a "how to travel cheap" in West Pokot and Turkana thread

Alright guys. Give me time to collate my pictures and arrange my thoughts and I will do it tomorrow

Alright. Here goes.

NB: I started this trip last year but concentrated more on Elgeyo Marakwet and a bit of W. Pokot, gathering info for this extended trip. That thread is here: https://twitter.com/mercymurugi/status/1149177033399963648?s=19

I did 5 days last year (almost exactly to the date) and 6 days this time round.

NB:
** A 4×4 is advisable.
** I use my own tent and cook my own food
** If cheap travel is not your thing, this is not your thread.

Left Nairobi at 5am. I like to leave early because I get to make unplanned stops along the way if I find hidden gems. Used the Mai Mahiu Rd because it was a foggy morning, and the upper Nakuru Rd becomes too foggy to drive through. Was foggy here too but better visibility.

Turned into Gilgil at the first junction and drove through the town. Decided to take the Old Nakuru Rd that passes near NYS for the morning views and also avoid the trucks at Kikopey.

Next unplanned stop was at Chepkoilel River. I have driven by this river for years and never stopped. There is actually loads of spots where one can have a picnic, if you would like to make a rest stop here.

This is worth noting though. Found used discarded syringes. Up the river, people were fetching water, bathing and animals drinking. Raw sewage also seems to be emptying into the river.
This part of the river is in Uasin Gichu @NemaKenya @MOH_Kenya @JacksonMandago @MargaretKamar

A favourite place to stopin W. Pokot is on the road between Makutano and Kamatira. The road winds dangerously as you descend but serves the most incredible views.

Arrived Marich Pass Field Studies later than planned - after sunset (had made a detour in Nakuru and ended up wasting valuable time). I wrote a blog post about my first time here- http://darkangelme.blogspot.com/2019/07/sound-of-river.html?m=1

Marich Pass Field Studies is run by Mrs. Roden, an Eriterian woman who has lived there for 30+ years. This has become my 2nd home as her and I became very good friends. Her staff are lovely too and they can make Injera for you!

They let me use their kitchen when it rains, which is fully equipped & semi traditional. For inquiries, call John at the reception office: 0702267252 or Ruth 0713657195. Tell them Mercy with the little white dog sent you
Self camping: 600 pp.
Bandas: 2,000 pp
Food on order

Left Marich Pass at 5am, planning on getting to Eliye Springs by dusk. While planing the trip from Nairobi, I'd assumed I could do a detour to Turkwel (on the left of the map) but I figured it won't give me enough time to enjoy it. So I saved it for the way back.

The road is beautifully tarmacked all the way to Lokichar (These pics are from between Ortum and Kainuk). The silt-heavy Maruny River (2 &3) contains gold deposits that the local community sieve from the river. Also on its banks is Marich Pass.

Now to address the concern: Security. This 47km stretch of road has had insecurity issues with bandits shooting at passing cars. Last case was year September. They have since cleared the bushes next to the highway with regular patrols. Also, a car goes by every 10 min or so.

I tweeted this earlier, we did breakdown on the way back from L.Turkana in the middle of this stretch. A few calls and the Chief Inspector at Lokichar sent an AP car with a mechanic from Lokichar. Luckily, we broke down a few kms from the Turkana South @kwskenya gate.

The road has fresh-looking patches on the sides, meaning at some point there were gaping holes. However, a constant speed of 100kms/ is possible, but do adhere to road signs and speed limits. This is Kainuk.

Btwn Lokichar & Lodwar the road is still under construction. You'll go in & out of tarmac for a while. Contractor is on site & work is ongoing. Drove through a storm on the way to but clear skies on the way back.

So clear it was, with minimal traffic that I had time for this shot.

Said goodbye to the tarmac in Lodwar and turned to Lodwar-Eliye Springs Rd. I actually enjoyed this section of the trip. The nothingness for miles with the sunset approaching. It was hot hot!

The sunset was too beautiful, it was worth getting to Eliye Springs late.

Which of course means there was a bit of getting lost and ending up in Acacia Camp instead of Eliye Springs Resort. Tempted to camp there but they have no facilities like a kitchen space for self-catering

Set up camp, cooked and slept. Woke up for a morning hike along the beach, had breakfast then swam most of the day. It was HOT but the water is amazing. The wind gets crazy at night. Rates: 800/~ pp/pn but I negotiated for 500/~

For other rates:
http://eliyespringsresort.com/rooms/ 

@eliyesprings has varied accommodation depending on your budget. Was tempted to try one night at the "tent" but I saw a scorpion & that was the end of that temptation. Dennis, the resort manager was wonderful, they offered their fridge for my cheeses, sausages and polony

Left following morning at 5am, made a stop at Lodwar to hike to the Christ The Redeemer statue. Not the greatest piece of art but it serves the purpose, I guess.

Drove back to Marich Pass (after the car trouble). Camped 1 night then left at 10am towards Turkwel. The plan was to sleep in Nakuru, hence the late start. Took was than 1hr, road is perfect.

Now, at the gate, you might have to negotiate your way in with the watchmen. However, if you are indeed interested, I have a contact you can call prior to your visit. Camped at the AP camp, and their boss assigned one of them to take us around.

It was free to camp, but did leave a token of appreciation for the hospitality and as thanks for using their camp, @Koreey_16 and I made the 6 APs stationed there proper dinner from our provisions - chapo and beans- they hadn't had it in months. Never seen happier policemen

Some of the attractions here include a tour inside the State home that the late President Moi used to go stay at. Hoping that @Johnlonyangapuo will think about making this a community-owned & ran guest house with a campsite. I am available to consult!

Took a boat ride (paid 100/~), swam (free), was to go fishing(free) but got lost hiking from the top of the hill down to the dam.

Following morning left at 5am, stopped over in Nakuru again but was back in Nairobi in time for curfew.

Cost breakdown:
Biggest cost》 Fuel. With a 50 liter full tank giving me approx 400kms, I covered 1667kms. That's 4 full tanks. Just under 20k.
Accommodation for one person: 1,700 whole trip

Food:

Carried cooking utensils and a meko. Bough some groceries &snacks in Nairobi sodas, energy drinks, crisps, digestives, oreos, etc. Made pancakes and hot dogs to carry too.

Drinking water got 20liters, used a portable pump to fill personal water bottles on the way.

I'd say that budget for food, snacks and water for 3 pax for 6 days was 10k. We always made heavy breakfast (sausages, pancakes, cereal) and dinner (ugali/goat stew, Pasta with sauce, chapati/ beans) and had sandwiches and hotdogs for lunch on the way.

Because one of us did all the driving (thankfully this time not me)... thank you @7r3n7k!! I would cook dinner and @Koreey_16 breakfast, as @7r3n7k set up tents and offloaded then rested from his 14hr driving.

What would I change? NOTHING! I have learnt the best number to travel with is 3. Easier division of labor (same as last time with @lets_drift & @dgichuru). Agree on division of roles earlier on, agree on itinerary and be open to deviate as long as it doesn't cost more.

We did not go over budget at all. I carried a 25 liter Fuel Can that I filled in Nairobi. I knew fuel prices would go up and wanted to save in case it shot up by too much. Granted it made the car heavier... it was a fantastic save!

Fin.

Feel the need to add this;
In our travels, we avoided contact with people. We refused to give any rides or lifts. We did get checked for temp at Kainuk & Kitale. Wore masks religiously every time we left the car (to buy nyama), had sanitisers in the car. Keep you and others safe!