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TRAVEL THREAD: Singapore Woodlands 
→ Johor Bahru Sentral 
(Ekspres Rakyat Timuran № ERT26) → Pasir Mas 
→ Rantau Panjang → Sungai Kolok 
(Special Express № SP38) → Bangkok Hua Lamphong → Saphan Kwae Yai (River Kwae Bridge).
→ Johor Bahru Sentral (Ekspres Rakyat Timuran № ERT26) → Pasir Mas → Rantau Panjang → Sungai Kolok (Special Express № SP38) → Bangkok Hua Lamphong → Saphan Kwae Yai (River Kwae Bridge).
Covering the entire Malaysian Peninsula, the total travel distance is just over 2000 km on meter gauge railway with a short break of section of ~25 km between Pasir Mas and Rantau Panjang. The railway exists but it is not used for commercial traffic.
It is Deepavali break in Singapore and a long weekend making it ideal for travel distances long enough to return before the holiday ends.
The trip also features two longest distance trains in Malaysia (Ekspres Rakyat Timuran № ERT26) and Thailand (Special Express № SP38).
The trip also features two longest distance trains in Malaysia (Ekspres Rakyat Timuran № ERT26) and Thailand (Special Express № SP38).
At the moment, this is perhaps the most convenient, although not a popular route, from Singapore to Bangkok with minimal waiting times. That also brings its own set of anxieties especially with delay of train reaching near the Thai border and not being able to catch Thai train.
The popular tourist route via Kuala Lumpur and/or Butterworth (for Penang) to Padang Besar at Malaysia-Thailand border is far longer from Singapore as is involves change of trains at Gemas and possibly at Kuala Lumpur as well.
From Singapore Woodlands Checkpoint, my dream of taking Shuttle Tebrau to Johor Bahru Sentral never materialized. Tickets sold out weeks in advance. I’m content with looking at the Shuttle from a distance.
The Singapore Woodlands – Johor Bahru Causeway. Literally, it is no man’s land as one standing here is in neither of the two countries. Official Singapore-Malaysia border is where the dome is. Notice the distance marker set to “0” for Malaysia. Traffic was really bad. I walked! – bei Woodlands Checkpoint (Causeway)
10 minutes at Singapore immigration, 20 minutes walk across the Causeway, 10 minutes at Malaysian immigration. Given the traffic jam, I wouldn’t even make it across in an hour.
Picked up dinner at Subway and water at 7-11 at Johor Bahru Sentral station.
Picked up dinner at Subway and water at 7-11 at Johor Bahru Sentral station.
Ekspres Rakyat Timuran pulled by diesel locomotive christened “Pulau Besar” #25102. The driver was a friendly chap and answered a few questions I asked. They are going to taken train until Gemas and will be replaced by a new crew. Gemas is 196 km from Johor Bahru Sentral.
Since the locomotive and the Generator Car were noisy, I asked the driver if his ears are fine. He said he puts ear plugs on. I wonder how he can hear the assistant driver calling signals and speed restrictions on the permanent way.
#DiningCar of Ekspres Rakyat Timuran bound to Tumpat. Brightly lit and it was packed about 15 minutes ago. It serves rice and noodle-based dishes primarily. You can order food either at the counter or at your table.
If not then there is always the trolley service at the comfort of your berth. I’ve avoided the temptation of consuming hot Milo or its monstrous siblings such as Milo Dinosaur or Milo Godzilla (yes, they are real names of drinks!). May be tomorrow.
Good morning from Kuala Lipis. It is a crew changing station and we had a longish halt. The timetable shows “Ke Singapura”, or “Towards Singapore”, reminding of the times when @ktm_berhad trains used to end at Singapore. – bei KTM Kuala Lipis Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
Kuala Lipis was engulfed in fog when we arrived. A few minutes later the call of prayer from the beautiful mosque was made. – bei KTM Kuala Lipis Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
As I was roaming Kuala Lipis station, a co-passenger asked the station master for a place pray the morning prayer. Station master gave key to a room behind the station. I joined the co-passenger who led the prayer with beautiful recitation. The train left after we returned back.
Beautiful limestone cliffs between Merapoh and Gua Musang. Some covered in fog and some do not. The train is really set at speed due to the downward gradient.
We arrived early at the beautiful station of Gua Musang due to the faster run. That gave me opportunity to take some photos of train and the limestone cliff together.
Panoramic view of train and two limestone cliffs adjacent to the station. – bei KTM Gua Musang Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
Another set of photos from Gua Musang. – bei KTM Gua Musang Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
Now time for breakfast at #DiningCar ( @_DiningCar) of Ekspres Rakyat Timuran. It was packed with people when I arrived. Food came quickly after the order - Nasi Goreng with two eggs and tea. Without rice, it is difficult to survive the heat in tropics. It gives instant energy.
Departing Gua Musang. During my last trip, I was fascinated by the tin-roofed houses juxtaposed to the limestone cliff and I decided to take the video this time.
Just arrived at Kuala Krai station. The station looks modern with a canteen and other amenities. Long halt here. May be we arrived early. – bei KTM Kuala Krai Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
Yes, we did. About 20 minutes early according to the railway timetable. The drivers from Kuala Lipis have cranked the loco after every speed restriction and braked harder as well. – bei KTM Kuala Krai Railway Station (Stesen Keretapi)
The lovely faint glow of headlights of “Pulau Besar” #25102.
Finally saw the first signs of Pasir Mas to Rantau Panjang branch line. We are at Pasir Mas.
Found a taxi. The driver at first appeared a bit dodgy and I told him no other passengers as he was trying to get a family in the car. “Sorry boss!” He said. And after that he behaved well until we reached Rantau Panjang immigration complex.
Rantau Panjang railway station, or what it used to be. Before going on the other side I briefly managed to explore the last station in Malaysia close to Thai border. Notice in the second picture the Friendship Bridge over River Kolok (or Golok).
Malaysian immigration at Rantau Panjang. Short queue. Aaaaand..... entering the no man’s land between Malaysia and Thailand.
On River Kolok that forms the international boundary between Malaysia and Thailand. Notice the boats parked on either side which people use to fish and go across. For people along the river there is no “immigration”.
Panoramic view of railway bridge over River Kolok (or Golok). Although the Malaysian side is fenced, the Thai side of the railway bridge seems to be well maintained.
More pictures of the Friendship Bridge over River Kolok. On the way to the Thai immigration now.
Walked to the Thai immigration complex. There was a queue and some people were cutting it. A bit surprised. The immigration official spent quite a bit of time with my passport and finally stamped it. I’ve about 1.5 hrs to have lunch and catch train.
At Sungai Kolok railway station. There used to be a station sign in Thai, English and Jawi. The Jawi sign is gone although it is extensively used in Sungai Kolok.
Sungai Kolok is a lovely little station. Very charming place (except that it is extremely humid now!)
That line goes straight to Rantau Panjang from Sungai Kolok.
My train Special Express No. 38 from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok ready to depart.
The locomotive is Kawasaki built diesel loco with cabs at both ends. The non-AC cars have no grills on windows. There is a Restaurant car attached which which “AC” or air-cooled 
Parked on the side of our train is a shuttle service to Hatyai which would depart about half an hour after our train. There is also a place for heritage loco and cars (right).
There is very tight security on the train. In my coach itself, there are six soldiers with bulletproof vests. The southern part of Thailand has been ravaged by insurgency for many years. Only recently, things have calmed down.
We depart from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok by Special Express No. SP38.
First stop is Sungai Padi.
#DiningCar ( @_DiningCar) of Special Express № SP38 Going from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok. I’m enjoying tea with nuts. The Thai Railway timetable is lying handy to check stops along the route.
A lovely train model at Ruso station. We arrived 5 minutes early. The stations on this route have the old world charm. Families come to send their loved ones off.
Raman – a small station along the route.
Surat Thani to Sungai Kolok shuttle crossed us.
Just arrived at Yala station.
Yala seems to be a foodie’s paradise. Just look at the number of stalls and vendors selling food.
Just next to the station, you can see colored chairs lined up at the far side. In this part of the world, there seems to be a culture of having food outside, a continuity of what happens in southern part of the Malaysian Peninsula.
Pattani - What a lovely lovely station!
How did I miss this! I just noticed the Jawi writing that says ڤطاني دار الاسلام. “Pattani - The Abode of Peace”.
Leaving Pattani. This station really has character. I would love to spend some time here.
At Hat Yai Junction. The lines from Padang Besar and Sungai Kolok join here. The place is teeming with hawkers on the station.
Coupling ceremony - it invokes everyone’s curiosity. Here Special Express № SP46 from Padang Besar (Malaysia) is attached to the rear of Special Express № SP38 from Sungai Kolok. They both will go as a single train to Bangkok.
Three coach Special Express № SP46 from Padang Besar (Malaysia) arrives early and is parked on adjacent platform (video below). Our train Special Express № SP38 arrives next at Hat Yai Junction.
Also seen is another Special Express № SP32 to Bangkok on the far side.
Also seen is another Special Express № SP32 to Bangkok on the far side.
Good morning from Hua Hin. We arrived 45 minutes late.
Breakfast served at my bed by a lady from the @_DiningCar of Special Express № SP38. This is the luxury I have not enjoyed for a long time. I just couldn’t resist and say no. Pineapple is really tasty.
At Phetchaburi. Arrived 1 hour late.
Give and take few minutes, we are about one hour late arriving at Ratchaburi.
Nakhon Pathom station. First sign of Bangkok’s vast suburbs.
Just stopped at Salaya. We are about 30 km from Bangkok. Train running late by almost 1.5 hrs. Apparently this is quite common here and its mention only invites a shrug (I’m not complaining either). – bei สถานีรถไฟศาลายา (Sala Ya) SRT4009
Before arriving at Bang Sue Junction, there is a huge sharp curve. Our train waiting for the signal..... and rest of the train.
Arrival of Special Express № SP38 from Sungai Kolok at Bangkok Hua Lamphong Station. Designed by a European architect, this magnificent station gives a sense of proper arrival. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
We were only 1 hour 45 minutes late at Bangkok Hua Lamphong. It was enough to take photos of this beautiful train station. Don’t you think these old train stations have a strong character of their own? – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
A panorama of Bangkok Hua Lamphong station. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
Right in front as soon as you walk towards the exit, you see a huge portrait of the King of Thailand.
There were quite a few college students taking their photos in their gowns at Bangkok Hua Lamphong station. Perhaps as a reminder that this station may soon be history. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
There were quite a few college students taking their photos in their gowns at Bangkok Hua Lamphong station. Perhaps as a reminder that this station may soon be history. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
At the waiting concourse, people sit on chairs and on the ground. The sides are lined with shops and ticket counters. There are couple of coffee shops but they do not sell anything exciting. WARNING: Vegetarians – Please drop dead!
A view of the ticket counters. The information is displayed in Thai and English.
General views of Bangkok Hua Lamphong station. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
Now it is time to undertake last part of the journey – to go from Bangkok Hua Lamphong to Saphan Kwae Yai (River Kwai Bridge). Trains towards Kanchanaburi start from Bangkok Thon Buri station. So, I boarded Sungai Kolok Rapid service to catch the train at Taling Chin Junction. – bei สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ (หัวลำโพง) Bangkok Railway Station SRT1001
It was hot and muggy and I boarded a 3rd Class reserved(!) coach. Someone told me I’m on his seat. I moved.
I bought some apple and spinach filled croissants which had to be consumed to put my mind off the heat. Finally the train started and a bit of fresh air poured in.
I bought some apple and spinach filled croissants which had to be consumed to put my mind off the heat. Finally the train started and a bit of fresh air poured in.
At Taling Chan Junction, I bought the ticket to Kanchanaburi and joined the fun with railway official who had a toy Thai Railway locomotive on the railway track. – bei สถานีตลิ่งชัน (Taling Chan) SRT4004/SRT Light Red Line
Here is the toy locomotive sitting on the track at Taling Chan Junction. Fun stuff and photographing it. My train to Kanchanaburi could just be seen coming. – bei สถานีตลิ่งชัน (Taling Chan) SRT4004/SRT Light Red Line
Here is my train to Kanchanaburi hurtling into Taling Chan station. I was the only one who boarded. The train was mostly empty. – bei สถานีตลิ่งชัน (Taling Chan) SRT4004/SRT Light Red Line
My coach at the moment. Quite empty. The heat has sucked energy off the inhabitants. My coach is next to the locomotive (SRT written in yellow in front) that is very noisy when it cranks up. The windows and doors are all open. One can go touch the locomotive as well. – bei สถานีรถไฟโพรงมะเดื่อ (Phrong Maduea) SRT4018
Oh gosh! We just crossed the Eastern & Oriental Express going towards Bangkok Hua Lamphong station. Cc. @saliltripathi
Nong Pladuk Junction. The place from where the Death Railway or Siam-Burma Railway starts. 15 seconds halt. – bei สถานีรถไฟชุมทางหนองปลาดุก (Nong Pladuk Junction) SRT4020
This is how the Death Railway (Siam-Burma Railway) meets the Southern Line going towards Bangkok. It was taken this morning. This was built by the Japanese in WW2 to supply materials to Burma. Thousands perished building this line.
This line does not see much traffic and maybe it does not make good money either. Hence the neglect is showing with grass growing on the railway. Kanchanaburi or the next station Saphan Kwae Yai (River Kwai Bridge) is about an hour from the start of Death Railway.
At Kanchanaburi. Many people got down. – bei สถานีรถไฟกาญจนบุรี (Kanchanaburi) SRT4057
Meeting the weekend Bangkok-Nam Tok-Bangkok excursion train at Kanchanaburi. I do not know anything about the tourist looking train on the left. I suspect it is for excursions towards Nam Tok. – bei สุสานทหารสัมพันธมิตรกาญจนบุรี (Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetary)
Finally the destination – River Kwai Bridge station. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
I got down the train and ran towards the start of the bridge on River Kwai to position myself to take a video. This is the result. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
The train travels so slowly on the bridge that it gives one can opportunity to settle at different places to take photos. The bridge is packed with tourists from all over the world. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
At the entrance of the bridge over River Kwai has replicas of two bombs. The tourists are seen swooning over them. I was shaking my head when I saw that. The bridge is walkable from one to another. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
Starting from Kanchanaburi side, the bridge has arched trusses that give way to flat ones. The flat ones were installed after the Allied bombing. Strangely enough, the builder’s plate read: “Yokogawa Bridge Works: Tokyo, Japan”. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
On the Nam Tok side, there is a small hut that tells distances to various places. Visitors are welcomed by colorful plants on both sides of the bridge. On this side, tourists usually do not venture due to risk of injury if they do not stay in the middle of the railway. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
A panorama of bridge over looked from the Nam Tok end. On both sides, there is commercialization with loud music blaring. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
Vantage point for photography. I saw an old lady sitting there and selling live fishes in plastic pouchesI felt sorry for her. But by the time walked the entire length and came back, she had sold all but one. Everyone’s provisions are sorted by God. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
Panoramic view of River Kwai from the bridge. It was original called Mae Khlung River that was renamed River Kwai after David Lean’s movie made it popular. – bei สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว (The Bridge of the River Kwai)
And it was time for the Bangkok-bound train to cross the bridge. I knew the time of arrival and positioned myself in the middle of the bridge. Here is the video.
That is the end of this thread. Thank you for reading.
ADDENDUM: Making of bed in Special Express № SP38 from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok Hualamphong. The coach attendant upon request makes beds for passengers. It takes him about 2 minutes to make two beds. The blue curtains have seat numbers embroidered with gold-colored thread. – bei สถานีรถไฟบ้านเกาะใหญ่ (Ban Ko Yai) SRT4342
During daytime, the bottom bed is converted to seats facing each other by the coach attendant, again upon request. He sleeps in the beginning of the coach with CCTV screens right next to him.
ADDENDUM: Interior of AC Sleeper, second class of State Railway of Thailand Special Express № SP38 from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok Hualamphong. The luggage racks along the way restrict free movement of people. Bad design. Cost of travel for 18 hrs – S$50 / €33 / US$33 / £28.
ADDENDUM: I took a motorcycle taxi from Thai immigration to Sungai Kolok station that can be paid in MYR or THB. It is also walkable. It took <5 min to reach the station and saw local service to Phattalung departing. Behind is Special Express № SP38 from Sungai Kolok to Bangkok.
Just outside Thai immigration, you will see pink vest wearing chaps with motorcycles. They are official motorcycle taxi operators. Bargain for the price. Sungai Kolok station is walkable but I was running late and hence took the motorcycle taxi.
ADDENDUM: Just before entering Bang Sue Junction, a few km before Bangkok Hualamphong station, is a huge curve. Enjoy the slow chugging of Special Express № SP38 on the curve where it stops.
After waiting for 5 minutes, we proceed towards Bang Sue Junction.
Entry to Bangkok Hualamphong station is preceded by a huge coaching yard. Beautiful Bangkok skyline appears as we get closer to our final destination.
Entering Hua Hin station. Railway stations in Thailand have rustic charm. The driver appears to apply brakes fairly hard here. – bei สถานีรถไฟหัวหิน (Hua Hin) SRT4118
